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PostPosted: Mon Apr 17, 2006 4:10 pm 
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Club Staff
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Joined: Thu Jul 14, 2005 3:07 pm
Posts: 988
Location: Fareham
Car Model: ST205
Mahender,

Are you sure it is the rubber pipe leaking and not the rad itself?

I would have thought the connector on the rad would have been fairly clean anyway, however if it did look dirty cleaning it would have been a good idea.

IIRC the pipe slips ofer a 'sleve' which you then secure. . . if the pipe you have used to replace the split one is now leaking then I would suggest that either the rad is weeping or the new pipe has issues of it's own.

You say all this happened after a loud pop?

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 17, 2006 9:19 pm 
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Joined: Thu Nov 17, 2005 4:56 pm
Posts: 794
Car Model: None
I thought the garage place examined it all for you Mahender?
Might be an idea to drain the coolant and fill with water. Check for leaks again with the engine running. Once fixed refill with coolant.
Steve


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 18, 2006 8:59 am 
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Joined: Thu Jul 14, 2005 12:44 pm
Posts: 4067
Location: drinking devil fuel
Car Model: ST205
It would be best to remove the hose and clean the water elbow housing if it's badly corroded.
Also check for little splits in the end of the hose.

Use a bit of wire wool or similar to clean up the metal. Don't go attacking it with an angle grinder :D . A mild abrasive and some patience will work out much better in the long run. If it's really bad then you might find it easier to remove the elbow from the engine although access is not too bad it you take out the induction hose etc.

Just a little note. While you can crank up the clips on the metal parts (the main elbow and the water pump) be a little more careful on the plastic parts - i.e. the radiator connections. As the rad gets old the plastic becomes brittle and it can shatter if you go really mad with a jubilee........

To refit hoses that want to leak :-
Use a little bit of fairy liquid on the inside of the hose. This will help you slide it home fully. Once it's slid on and jubileed leave it for 3-4 hours. This will let the fairy dry into a sort of mild glue which usually seals stuff up
If all else fails get down to your local plumbers merchant and buy some LSX (I think) Hot water cylinder fitting sealant. It's like a sort of thick clear gel that you use when attaching fittings to hot water tanks. Lord knows how but it certainly seems effective in sealing them up and being a gel type thing it should not cause a stroke if a bit gets into the water system. Presure tested @ 3.7bar in our hot water system :D
if you do use it application is a little different to the fairy method. Spread a thin layer on the elbow itself, not inside the pipe. This way as you slide the pipe on any excess will be pushed away from the coolant, not into it


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 18, 2006 4:22 pm 
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Group N
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Joined: Thu Oct 06, 2005 4:26 pm
Posts: 357
Location: stockport, manjester
Car Model: None
thanks all,
i feel a bit cry wolfish. with traumas all the time. the split pipe was the top rad hose this has sealed correctly now. i used a green pan thing and bit of soapy water to clean.
once again thanks for all your help and patience..

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THIS IS MY 4. THERE ARE MANY OTHERS LIKE THIS ONE, BUT THIS IS MINE.
red st185, running 10 psi all gears, powerflow cat back, and air filter. oh and fab scoop splitters


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 18, 2006 4:23 pm 
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Joined: Thu Oct 06, 2005 4:26 pm
Posts: 357
Location: stockport, manjester
Car Model: None
steven b i havent been to the garage yet. have no money.

one more question since upping my boost to 10psi all gears. my car seems to drink petrol. b4 all the rebuttles about more boost more fuel. let me explain i still dont boot it all the time i still potter at around atmos on boostgauge.
do i need a map or mixture checking. or can i just reset the ecu and it will figure itself out?
thanks

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THIS IS MY 4. THERE ARE MANY OTHERS LIKE THIS ONE, BUT THIS IS MINE.
red st185, running 10 psi all gears, powerflow cat back, and air filter. oh and fab scoop splitters


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