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 Post subject: Superstrut replacement
PostPosted: Mon Dec 08, 2014 11:57 am 
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Clubman

Joined: Fri Oct 07, 2005 10:14 am
Posts: 82
Car Model: None
I've ordered the full set from the Polish fella, with new (genuine) crush tubes. The car is pretty dangerous at the moment so it definitely needs doing; I can feel the banana arm moving around under load. I've read about some doubts with going poly on the banana arm, but I'll give it a shot for the price.

My memory is a little hazy so if anyone has a guide that would be much appreciated. I presume it should be pretty simple with not having to split any of the joints and just doing the thing wholesale? Crush tubes through the bottom after levelling the hub on a jack?

My plan is to wait and see on the top ball joints as I see them as a separate job to the SS arms. However I'll do the drop links - any recommendations short of genuine Toyota? TCB or are the fleabay ones good enough?

Cheers,
Jon


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 08, 2014 1:16 pm 
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Group B
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Joined: Sat Sep 02, 2006 3:13 pm
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Location: Bournemouth
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I've used the non-genuine TCB without issue.

I've read several tales of woe about ebay cheapies, including sheared off joints and just plain worn out & clonking within 6 months.

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PostPosted: Tue Dec 09, 2014 3:45 pm 
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Club Staff
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Joined: Thu Jul 14, 2005 12:44 pm
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Location: drinking devil fuel
Car Model: ST205
I can't imagine any reason not to use poly in the banana arm chassis mount.
I think the bigger issue is if the rubber bushing is Shaag Doubt there's a reasonable chance the balljoint t'other end is in sub optimal condition

It's still a painful job, replacing wholesale just saves breaking a single fig 8 joint

Need to
Undo inboard end of both arms (IIRC the engine has to be jacked to remove the seesaw arm bolt one side)

Undo both arms from the hub (which sucks because it's hard to get a socket in there) or remove the arm mounting plate from the bottom of the hub

Undo figure 8 to strut joint

So all in you're looking at breaking nearly all of the big taper joints anyway unless you go for the Fensport camber plates

Officially crush tubes go in from above so ideally you need to drop the whole subframe to do the job.
Unofficially, they are often seized into the old arms requiring removal with saws, cold chisels and swearing (all of which can be done with the subframe in place) and new ones will locate sufficiently well from below
I think some of the aftermarket uprated crush tubes are designed for bottom insertion

TBH I would do the top ball joint too. Realistically that will require taking the strut off the car to get plenty of heat on it and bring a big hammer/press to bear
You're 75% of the way there doing the arms anyway....


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 19, 2014 5:48 pm 
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Clubman

Joined: Fri Oct 07, 2005 10:14 am
Posts: 82
Car Model: None
Man if I ever get my hands on the guy who designed superstrut....just had to give up for the day and not even one side done! Old stuff came out fairly easily and got the new stuff all installed with just the banana bush & bolt to do. Could I get the top side of the bush lined up with the bolt hole? Could I *bleep*. Not sure if its a result of it being poly. I've got to say it doesn't feel great doing the crush tube from the bottom as it doesn't really reach the recess (just before the start of the bolt thread) that it's supposed to sit in? Or am I missing something? Geniuine crush tube btw.

Bloody frustrating. O/S inner CV is dead too, split boot and looks like it's been run dry for a long time. The driveshaft oil seal is leaking anyway.


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 19, 2014 8:02 pm 
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Joined: Sat Sep 02, 2006 3:13 pm
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Location: Bournemouth
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Easier to fit the nana arm to the subframe first, then the other end into the plate, then push the plate down under the hub & up onto the stud.

If you have poly bushes this will be much harder as they don't like bending.

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