Hi i'm new to this
I had my engine rebuild because i was getting signs of smoke coming out of the exhaust i sent my turbo off to turbo dynamics to get refurbished and the bottom end i head tb developments rebuild it with cp pistons eagle rods arp bolts throughout and had the head refurbished all back together and still getting the same problem i tried a sniff test that was ok i've done a compression test that was ok and done a leak down test and getting air coming out of the dipstick so air was going past the piston rings my question is should i be getting air going past the piston rings on a newly built engine i haven't done any miles in it this is just through ticking over sent turbo back to turbo dynamics to recheck thank you

You will always get some leakage past the rings, but not a huge amount.

The best suggestion is to take it back to Tim. If he's only just rebuilt it then it should be under warranty. I've heard of a similar issue from someone else and he did the right thing and sorted it.

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If at first you don't suck seed, try drier grain.

Agree, you've paid good money to have the engine built professionally so take it back and get them to fix it. If you try and do anything yourself it will just give them grounds to deny liability.

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Don
GT4DC Chairman
1994 Toyota Celica GT-Four ST205WRC JDM 269bhp @ 0.9bar
1994 Toyota Celica GT-Four Special GT 590bhp @ 1.8bar
1989 Van Diemen RF88/89 Formula Ford 1600
2008 Nissan Patrol GU 3.0L ZD30DDTi 154bhp

Was any problem found when the old engine or turbo was stripped?

Without wishing to state the obvious and afaik, air from the dipstick is absolutely normal. Smoking from the dipstick or blowing dipsticks/oil out on boost is not normal.

It is also not uncommon to get a bit of oil usage on a freshly built engine, especially a forged one, until run in.

I would still suggest contacting Tim for advice.

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If at first you don't suck seed, try drier grain.

thanks for all the replies the only problem i had with the engine before i had it rebuilt it was low on compression on two of the bores and when turbo dynamics got in touch with me about the turbo they said the amount of play in it would not of caused the smoke so as it was all a part i went for a total rebuild

been in touch with tim and found the problem it was that i was running it in with semi synthetic oil and should have been using mineral oil so just need to drain it out and flush it through and fingers crossed have not done any damage

Besides using mineral oil has Tim given you any other running in instructions? With my engine I'm planning on doing three changes of Millers CRO 10w40 competition mineral running-in oil in the first few hundred miles before I swap over to Millers CSF 10w60 NT nanotechnology engine oil. For a normal road 3S-GTE I use Shell Helix semi-synthetic. It's also a good idea to avoid steady speed/constant rpm motorway type driving and of course avoid high boost. Maybe you know all this but I thought it worth mentioning for the benefit of others.

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Don
GT4DC Chairman
1994 Toyota Celica GT-Four ST205WRC JDM 269bhp @ 0.9bar
1994 Toyota Celica GT-Four Special GT 590bhp @ 1.8bar
1989 Van Diemen RF88/89 Formula Ford 1600
2008 Nissan Patrol GU 3.0L ZD30DDTi 154bhp

Did Tim really supply an engine with no instructions on how to run it in ?

From what I've gathered from various posts, the first 20 miles are the most critical. Decent oil inhibits the running in process. The car shouldn't be left idling or driven too gently. Fairly heavy right foot but keep revs down and avoid high boost. Don't keep revs constant.

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If at first you don't suck seed, try drier grain.

no tim did not supply any instructions on how to run the engine in
all tim did was rebuild the bottom end and ship it back to me then i rebuilt the rest

Tim will tell you himself the worst thing for a new engine is tickover, if yours hasnt moved then your rings are not bed in so your more likely to get leakage into, the CP rings especially are a low friction set so its very important you load them correctly with the correct oil, Don has recommended the same engine oil that I use for running engines in

Best procedure from my own findings is run engine up for a short few seconds, stop, recheck and top up all levels, general check around everything then I take the car out for a few miles loading the engine immediately(not foot to the floor loading) by this I mean feed in the throttle and use the engine to decelerate also.

Oil and filter changes at 50miles/250 miles/600 miles then fully synthetic at 1000 miles, if you move onto the running in oil that Don has mentioned you should be fine with tims engine, just don`t leave a new engine ticking over its a big important rule as it will ruin the run in and you will have an oil thirsty engine

Another thought is reading through your post I cant see any mention of refurbing the head ? reason I ask is oil could be passing worn valve stem oil seals/guides, etc.

Martin

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We now have a new website

https://www.mkautorepairsandtuning.uk/

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The head has been refurbished Martin, in the first post

You must have missed it?

Sent from my C6833 using Tapatalk

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[color=#000080]ST205 WRC 1994
Hybrid turbo
Apexi AVC-R
Apexi Power FC (Not being used ATM)
Apexi Power commander (Not being used ATM)

Yep missed it, I read it twice as well doooooh

Martin

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We now have a new website

https://www.mkautorepairsandtuning.uk/

http://www.facebook.com/pages/Mk-Auto-R ... 7894641634

Too much Christmas cheer

_________________
If at first you don't suck seed, try drier grain.