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PostPosted: Tue Jan 06, 2015 11:45 am 
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Joined: Wed Dec 17, 2014 6:17 pm
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Location: Portsmouth
Car Model: ST205
Hi, I have had a good search round the site, but can't find anything and need to place and order sharpish. I am looking to buy Toyota for life concentrate coolant or a few units of the pre-mixed stuff. Does anyone know how many litres I need to fill both charge cooler and rad?

Answer is 9.5

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Last edited by BecauseRaceCar on Wed Jan 07, 2015 1:36 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 06, 2015 3:43 pm 
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Location: Camberley, Surrey
Car Model: ST205
I'll leave it here - always useful info for the search engine. :)

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 06, 2015 8:48 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jul 13, 2005 12:06 am
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Location: Perth, Western Australia
Car Model: ST205
Loads of this type of info available on our sister web site here: http://www.gtfours.co.uk/stuff/facts/205/facts.htm

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1994 Toyota Celica GT-Four ST205WRC JDM 269bhp @ 0.9bar
1994 Toyota Celica GT-Four Special GT 590bhp @ 1.8bar
1989 Van Diemen RF88/89 Formula Ford 1600
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 07, 2015 1:36 pm 
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Joined: Wed Dec 17, 2014 6:17 pm
Posts: 166
Location: Portsmouth
Car Model: ST205
Ah Ok then, well maybe I will try and find the typical ratio for dilution of the concentrate too just for additional info.

However I bought premixed in the end.

Got a discount from WKB Toyota Waterlooville, as I mentioned I was a member of the GT Four DC, 10 litres pre mixed for £44.27

May be a handy point of contact for anyone in the Portsmouth/Hampshire area. good customer service and a short drive from the South coast workshop in Emsworth too.

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 07, 2015 5:58 pm 
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Joined: Fri Oct 07, 2005 10:14 am
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Good tip, or at least from my recent experience, is to take the opportunity to de-gunk the overflow bottle as access is easy without the rad & fans. This is what came out of mine after some persuasion! No it isn't pooh! :lol:

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This had blocked the breather pipe so it wouldn't have been working properly, if at all.


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 07, 2015 6:44 pm 
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Location: Perth, Western Australia
Car Model: ST205
If you are going to do a full refill of the engine coolant and intercooler systems then I'd be tempted to flush the engine block to remove the years of accumulated junk. I posted the following a while ago:

When I did a full system flush on Stormy Blue a while back following its boiling episode on track I did the following:
1. Purchased 2 x 5litre containers of red Toyota ForLife coolant
2. Purchased a Halfords two-pack radiator/cooling system flush and anti-corrosion solution. (I suspected a partial blockage and rust/corrosion sludge in the system could partly have caused my problem on track).
3. Followed the instructions on the Halford pack religously e.g. warmed engine with heater on, drained old coolant, filled with radflush run engine again by going for a short drive, drained radflush, disconnected top hose between cylinder head and top of radiator, disconnected radiator bottom hose, connected garden hose to cylinder head, turned tap on full to ensure that a good flow of water through the head and block was achieved. I had to let the water flow through the block, head and heater for some time (~1/2 an hour) until it ran clear. Repeated the process for the radiator itself then added the anti-corrosion pack and went for another short drive, drained the rad and engine again then filled with red Toyota ForLife.

This is all from memory so please check the instructions on the radflush/inhibitor pack DONT rely solely on the above!

This might all sound a bit extreme but it certainly seemed to cure my overheating problem so I consider it to have been very worthwhile :D

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Don
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1994 Toyota Celica GT-Four ST205WRC JDM 269bhp @ 0.9bar
1994 Toyota Celica GT-Four Special GT 590bhp @ 1.8bar
1989 Van Diemen RF88/89 Formula Ford 1600
2008 Nissan Patrol GU 3.0L ZD30DDTi 154bhp


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 07, 2015 8:07 pm 
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Yep definitely a big fan of the garden hose trick, though I didn't run any flush agents:

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Also found the cause of my overcooling:

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 07, 2015 9:01 pm 
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Location: Perth, Western Australia
Car Model: ST205
TRD 71 degree thermostat :) (Standard 82) If you replace it don't throw it away!

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Don
GT4DC Chairman
1994 Toyota Celica GT-Four ST205WRC JDM 269bhp @ 0.9bar
1994 Toyota Celica GT-Four Special GT 590bhp @ 1.8bar
1989 Van Diemen RF88/89 Formula Ford 1600
2008 Nissan Patrol GU 3.0L ZD30DDTi 154bhp


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 07, 2015 11:00 pm 
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Yeah I knew it would either be a low temp or failing stat so had the replacement ready to go in (actually on the battery in 1st pic). Not sure of its TRD or some other flavour, ime they are never marked anyway. If anyone wants it for beer money be my guest, just needs a good solvent bath.


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 12, 2015 5:18 pm 
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Having a few problems with the coolant elbow end rad hose leaking :( I changed them for silicone jobbies and obviously hasn't sealed despite using a quality jubilee. Will change to mikalor's once I found out what size to use - that plus sand down the elbow outlet to remove any imperfections and use a dab of silicone.


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 12, 2015 7:49 pm 
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Location: Camberley, Surrey
Car Model: ST205
I had that issue for ages when using a silicon hose, ended up using a little LSX (silicon) to solve the issue. Now I am back on OEM hoses it is fine.

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 12, 2015 8:10 pm 
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Yeah had it before too, I think the 'flare' on the coolant elbow end is not as pronounced and the silicone does not seal as well on the clip. I'll try the silicon and mikalor route but have kept the OEM hoses just in case.


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 13, 2015 12:41 am 
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Location: Camberley, Surrey
Car Model: ST205
I have used 'ABA' hose clips with good results, they have a continuous band on the inside with a jubilee clip on the outside, you can get them from Demon Tweeks, I use mikalor clamps for my exhaust, not sure how small they make them however.

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 13, 2015 10:14 am 
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Thanks, had lost 1.5 litres overnight so was suspicious that all of that could have come from the rad hose weeping - sure enough its the wee 90 degree hose underneath, the one that joins the pump hard line. It's boiling out of there at a vast rate of knots. At least it's not the hose from hell and access doesn't look too bad. Have ordered the ebay silicon kit rather than mess about trying to get one from Toyota.

I think my car has been laid up for years at some point in its life as the rubber hoses seem fairly poor for Toyota + the PCV valve failure. Or maybe ST205's are just reaching that age now.

Cheers,
Jon


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 13, 2015 10:17 am 
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Location: Bournemouth
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Wd40 and wire wool are good for cleaning the corroded metal bits. Clean it off thoroughly after though as it destroys rubber. Clean pipe is the key to a good seal.
I have come across silicone hose clamped very tight to try to seal a leak and the hose has cut right through and burst. Just a word of caution about going this route.

If you use silicone sealant, put a thin smear on the metal rather than in the hose so you don't get any in the coolant. This method does get a bit messy if you need to undo the joint in the future.

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