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 Post subject: gauge fuse blowing help!
PostPosted: Fri Jun 12, 2015 2:40 pm 
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Clubman

Joined: Mon Jan 04, 2010 9:07 pm
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Hi driveing the car yesterday and the dials in the dash clocks just died
also on parking up, noticed the electric windows dont work at all (no power)
am i right in thinking that they share the same 10amp fuse??
no problem, so thought id replace the 10amp fuse for another, but on turning
the ignition after replaceing with a new fuse, the fuse is instantly blowing
i need some advise as i dont know where to start
up to this point ive had no electrical issues with the car at all, im also not great with electrics
so will only be able to check things that are straight forward
but any advise welcome (its boiling hot and i cant open the windows)!


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 14, 2015 12:29 pm 
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Clubman

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anyone??


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 14, 2015 6:50 pm 
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Clubman

Joined: Mon Jan 04, 2010 9:07 pm
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ok gauge fuse is still blowing when putting in a new one
also ive tryed another 30A fuse for the windows and they are still not getting any power
i drove the car earleyer but now also think the no 38 fuse, 40A has blown,
ignition system distributor system, meaning i now cant start the car
also the think the no 43 under hood power fuse has blow (just have to confirm as i cant remove it yet)
any ideas?? as something is definatly not right also seeing as ive never had any electrical problems ever with the car
im open to any advise


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 15, 2015 8:41 am 
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From the number of fuses blowing i would suspect physical damage to the loom somewhere, either falling into moving parts or onto a hot exhaust or going over a sharp edge. This would usually be caused by the loom being unsupported because clips are left off, gromets left off going through the bulkhead etc.

Alternatively, it could have been a short in aftermarket wiring to a gauge blowing the 10a fuse, and then with a 30a fuse fitted the wire itself melting damaging the loom from inside.

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 15, 2015 12:32 pm 
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Clubman

Joined: Mon Jan 04, 2010 9:07 pm
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Hi and thanks for the reply
the only gauge ive got fitted is a avc-r which was fitted professionally
i did get the ecu replaced a few weeks ago for the original
is it possible that the ecu didnt get replace in the cradle properly?
if the ecu body came in contact with the car body would this cause a short?
at this time it seem the only logical conclusion
but i does seem stange that only the gause fuse and window fuse is affected and that the ignition fuse
seems to have gone a few days later
im actually going to check the ignition fuse with a meter to be 100%
but seem odd that only now the car refuses to start
but im still open to any and all advise


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 15, 2015 2:12 pm 
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Clubman

Joined: Mon Jan 04, 2010 9:07 pm
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ok checked the ecu and cradle, the ecu (may) have made contact with the car body??
refitted correctly
it seems that the no. 43 under body fuse, power/alternator/power to fuses, fuse has blown
hard to tell, if its blown as it has a slight brown deposit on it, but it does look bridged
but on trying to remove it to check it, it is sucured firmly?? there is no power to the door locks (where there was before)
radio/cd working and avcr, but no power to the time clock or any of the displays when ignition kek is turned
as mentioned the fuse is very hard to remove to check properly with a meter


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 15, 2015 6:15 pm 
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The ALT fuse is bolted on below, inside the fuse box.

The ECU normally bolts to the body, and also works fine if isolated so this is a red herring.

What model GT4 is it, and I'll have a look at some circuits.

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 15, 2015 7:53 pm 
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Clubman

Joined: Mon Jan 04, 2010 9:07 pm
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many thanks for the reply
i notice that the (lower section ) of the fuse box is removable, so i assume that you un clip this
then get to the ALT fuse from there

i agree with what you say about the ecu, as it is actually bolted to the cradle and then the body

also its a st205

im really confused about what would cause this much trouble? as ive never had any problems electrical at all
so any help or advise is most welcome

im thinking that i may have to get a auto electrics guy out, but really cant afford it at the moment
and i want to be sure ive tryed everything i can, as this is a last resort


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 16, 2015 12:08 am 
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Clubman

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just a update
ive had time to do some research tonight and it seems the ALT fuse can cause all matter of problems
relating to the electrics
manly due to the fact that it controls alot of other fuses in the fuse box
i did mention that id had no electrical problems in the past
but replaced the battery about 4 weeks ago due to the other battery not fully chargeing
i put this down to the dry cell battery i had, had run compleatly flat on 2 occasions
i replaced for a new battery and alls been well since
so not sure if the above is just coincidence but thought it was worth a mention
im looking on replaceing the ALT fuse so as to eliminate this
as mentioned, it doesnt look broken, but the bridge does look brown
if this doesnt work, im not sure where to look next
again any advise welcome


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 16, 2015 7:15 pm 
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Toyota workshop manual, circuits at end. (It will also help an auto electrician if you end up with one)

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/831 ... rm399e.pdf

The gauge fuse also drives a relay which switches power to the windows so the original failure looks like a single failure.
If the alt fuse is gone, then most circuits will stop working, including engine control, lighting plus all on the original gauge fuse.

The particular thing that normally blows the alt fuse (It is 100A !) is a short circuit to ground on the large output terminal on the back of the alternator. A faulty alternator could also cause this, it could also blow the gauge fuse as this feeds one of the low power connections through the alternator plug.

As above, inspect the wiring loom closely, especially in the engine bay and particularly at the back of the alternator. Check for signs of overheating / melting. Check for signs of insulation damage if it's rubbing against something hot (exhaust) or moving or just metal.

If you find fuses blowing, don't ever replace with a higher value as this will just burn out the wiring loom if the problem is not resolved. In this case, I would try unplugging the alternator and disconnecting the large (M6 stud / 10mm nut) output connection and insulating the crimp ring (don't let it touch metal or it will blow the alt fuse)

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 17, 2015 3:22 pm 
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Clubman

Joined: Mon Jan 04, 2010 9:07 pm
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much appreciate the advise
just an update, as mentioned ive changed the ALT fuse for a new one just to compleatly rule it out
strange thing is there is no power (at all) now!
no power comeing from the battery to the car at all, no lights ignition, nothing
where as before (as mentioned) the car was cranking (with plenty of power) power to the cd/radio and alarm
and the power locking doors
why would swapping a fuse for a new one possible cause this?

also done a physical check of all the wireing i can see and all looks ok

the good news is, my garage who looks after the car does do the electrical side of things (as some dont)
so they are haveing the car on monday morning, the electrical file you greatfully down loaded with go with car
to give them as much help as possible
but id still like to try and work at it until monday, without going beyond my limits
again much apreciat the help


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 17, 2015 8:26 pm 
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Could be immobiliser as power would have likely been disconnected while you had the fuse box apart.

Other than that, it would probably be safer leaving to someone who understands these things.

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 18, 2015 10:14 am 
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Clubman

Joined: Mon Jan 04, 2010 9:07 pm
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never had a problem with the alarm or immobiliser before

i would have thought once the power was reconnected the alarm/immobiliser would have just come
back on (as when changeing the battery)
the car would still get full electric, but no start (until coded)


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 06, 2015 8:11 pm 
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Clubman

Joined: Mon Jan 04, 2010 9:07 pm
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update please any surgestions!
the cars been looked at and checkover, there is no physical signs of any problems
battery alternator also all checkout ok
it seem this 10A fuse is wired to quite a few things around the car making it very hard to
trace the problem
for some reason, when the fuse is replaced, is not blowing until its been driven for 15-20 mins (coincidence)!!
last time i had the car back (the battey had been fully charged) but on leaving it over half a-day
the car would barely turn over, as in it felt like a flat battery, jumped off leads instantly
drove car around the block to help charge the battery for 5 mins, compleate loss of all power to the car (while driveing)
so the car went up to be checked as above
now in the same possition, car ran for 15-20 mins (coincidence)? and the fuse blew (car still runs fine)
replace fuse cars all good, but do i now leave it like this?? the battery drained last time as above
or should i dissconect the battery to make sure it starts
i can see why my mechanic is very frustrated as there doesnt seem to be a way of pin pointing the problem
so im now left witha car thats unrealiable
any advise!!


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