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| Code 54 http://www.gt4dc.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=7397 |
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| Author: | coldel [ Mon Jun 15, 2015 8:06 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Code 54 |
Have diagnosed this on my ST205 Car has around 70k miles on it, checked the coolant level the other day when it got serviced and it was nicely topped up and a nice colour of red. A google of solutions puts up pump bearings, brushes and a few other things I really don't know where to start - assume I am a mechanical idiot (easily done) when replying please 
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| Author: | Sirius [ Mon Jun 15, 2015 8:20 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Code 54 |
Hi Col, Make sure it really is absolutely brimmed the fluid. Also you can bridge the level sensor to rule that in/out of your problems. The absolute worst case is a pump replacement which is not that bad if you get a refurbished one. |
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| Author: | coldel [ Mon Jun 15, 2015 8:32 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Code 54 |
OK thanks sirius, have got some premix here (the official toyota stuff) I am going to ask probably the dumbest question of the day but before I go out and top it up I presume it goes in direct through the metal cap with the yellow sticker with the blue ring around it? (although I live by the saying "ask a question and be a fool for a minute, or don't ask and be a fool for life" haha!)  Also, I am sure I read somewhere that revving the car whilst topping up is advisable to enable more to go in? |
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| Author: | Sirius [ Mon Jun 15, 2015 10:44 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Code 54 |
Yep that's the right place, blipping the throttle makes the pump run so can be useful to squeeze every bit possible in. The sensor is quite finicky, if the level is only slightly down it will show the error. |
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| Author: | Nibbles [ Tue Jun 16, 2015 6:35 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Code 54 |
As above, blip the throttle (you don't need the engine running, just ignition on iirc) and the pump will run for about 30 seconds. Check you see the water swirl downwards as you blip the throttle, then top up & replace cap before it stops. Code 54 is generated from either a low level (sensor next to circled lid above) or from lack of pump electrical current when called to run (usually brushes or bad connection). |
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| Author: | coldel [ Tue Jun 16, 2015 6:42 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Code 54 |
Went to take the cap off and it came off really easily, I don't think it was on properly? Anyway, topped it up as described, the pump did activate when I blipped it and the coolant swirled and I topped it up and put the cap back on (at the second attempt after I waited too long and it stopped and the coolant came out!). So seems like the pump is working, the cap is now on properly and the level topped up, I managed to get a fair bit in once I blipped it. Will be driving the car tomorrow night so can check the light then. Cheers for your responses above guys to what was probably a really simple question |
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| Author: | Nibbles [ Tue Jun 16, 2015 6:59 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Code 54 |
Reset the ECU as described in the link above to clear the code then you will know if it comes back. |
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| Author: | coldel [ Wed Jun 17, 2015 8:01 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Code 54 |
I removed the EFI 15 amp fuse, the blue one at the bottom of the fuse box, I think that was correct. Car started ok no light, will be driving it tonight so let's see Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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| Author: | two_OH_five [ Wed Jun 17, 2015 2:53 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Code 54 |
You should be fine The symptoms are consistent with a genuine slightly low level. When everything is cold the coolant is at its lowest volume and the level alarm goes off. When it's been running for a few minutes the coolant warms up and expands enough that it goes above the alarm level. So you switch it off and on again and the error magically vanishes! Mine went through a whole winter like that 
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| Author: | coldel [ Wed Jun 17, 2015 10:36 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Code 54 |
All good - took it for a drive tonight, started from cold twice, no light Cheers guys! Now I know how to top up intercooler coolant, do the trick with the throttle cable to get the pump running, how to do the paperclip trick with the diagnostic port and how to reset the ecu for the error codes Just got to work out how to get the plastic off the clocks so I can put the fuel needle back on now... 
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