Okay cam belt change time.

Having trouble undoing the crank pulley nut, any idears ?

I've tried heavy duty air impact gun.
I've tried the long bar and use the starter motor against the wishbone on cranking the engine.
I've tried some heat only small butane gas torch, but don't want to ruin the rubber damper part of it. So a little wary of perishing that too much

Darryl

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Darryl

Maybe worth trying the http://www.gtfours.co.uk instructions in the How To->Repair/Maintain->Change the Cambelt section?

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Don
GT4DC Chairman
1994 Toyota Celica GT-Four ST205WRC JDM 269bhp @ 0.9bar
1994 Toyota Celica GT-Four Special GT 590bhp @ 1.8bar
1989 Van Diemen RF88/89 Formula Ford 1600
2008 Nissan Patrol GU 3.0L ZD30DDTi 154bhp

Breaker bar against the ground and use the starter. The trick is to leave a little slack so it gets a run up at it.

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If at first you don't suck seed, try drier grain.

Yep the breaker bar against the ground / wishbone had slack to get some momentum. Still no go:-(
The holder using the puller threads won't with an m8 bolt hold as much torque at the engine turning and if they bend that will be a bummer.

I'm considering ordering a new pulley nut and drill the head and built in washer off so then no camping force on thread can weld a nut to remove the thread section into the crank. Thoughts ? Has anyone had to do that before ?

Darryl

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Darryl

Could you use the weight of the car and a long bar to get it undone - ie jack the car up really high.

Or sump off and block of wood to stop the crank from turning and then a long bar.

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GT4DC Events Co-ordinator
1996 ST205 UK

I used a jack against my 600mm breaker bar as you say, against weight of car till it bent.

Sent from my Nexus 7

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Darryl

I need either a lot more torque against it and beefier bar. Or a better way of shock breaking the ( I guess corrosion ) join its made.

Sent from my Nexus 7

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Darryl

Soak in wd40 for a couple of days and borrow roger.

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If at first you don't suck seed, try drier grain.

Will try it, but the but is suffering now what nights did you say you will be in the unit Chris wed & thurs ?

Darryl

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Darryl

Heat the nut then quench with Wd40 a couple of times to try and shock any corrosion loose - also seems to suck wd into the threads too. The a couple of good belts square on the head ( a TerryT tip). Then heat again and apply the blurt gun or BFO breaker bar

If that doesn't work then you're down to last resorts like welding scaffold poles to the bolt
Obviously don't use so much heat you melt the vibration damper.....

Well ordered a wall drive socket and another pulley bolt.... So will have a more serious long term attack at it once they turn up !

In mean time will wd40 each evening and once at work .... Until then ..... Hmm

Darryl

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Darryl

gopher game?

Seriously tho, its sometimes surprising how effective the application of heat can be and if that fails then spot welding is also a good suggestion.

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Don
GT4DC Chairman
1994 Toyota Celica GT-Four ST205WRC JDM 269bhp @ 0.9bar
1994 Toyota Celica GT-Four Special GT 590bhp @ 1.8bar
1989 Van Diemen RF88/89 Formula Ford 1600
2008 Nissan Patrol GU 3.0L ZD30DDTi 154bhp

I got mine off with a 450nm electric impact wrench from Machine Mart , took a while to break it loose but it worked.
Engine was out so I had to strap the flywheel to the engine casing to stop the crank from turning.

Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk

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[color=#000080]ST205 WRC 1994
Hybrid turbo
Apexi AVC-R
Apexi Power FC (Not being used ATM)
Apexi Power commander (Not being used ATM)

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GT Four Adovansu

"I want to enjoy the powerful and nimble agility behavior."

Lots of wd40 over last few days, even more heat. And a sds chisel .... Job done !
Cheers my mate Chris ( Nibbles )


https://www.dropbox.com/s/2fq53rsfpmi2880/IMAG1472.jpg

https://www.dropbox.com/s/qhuktlcid73w71c/IMAG1473.jpg

https://www.dropbox.com/s/2fn4nplnddr6xh1/IMAG1476.jpg

Darryl

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Darryl