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PostPosted: Thu Mar 03, 2016 2:42 pm 
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Group N

Joined: Sat Jul 16, 2011 8:13 am
Posts: 220
Location: North East (Cullercoats)
Car Model: ST185 CS/RC
Hy guys. Been fitting a relay to the starter motor and it has worked!!! No problems starting :)
Problem is going!
I had the air filter (standard), the large hose towards the turbo and the battery off, to install the relay. I have a samsco right angle with a small pipe 'T'ed off to ? catch can is it? then a short metal tube then more samsco to turbo.
First time out I could hear an air leak as soon as she went on boost.
I tightened up all the jubilee clips, four of them and checked the spring clips to the ?catch can?
I have a manual boost controler set at 0.8 but am struggling to see where its pipes go! (fitted when I got it)
Now, whenever I floor it I get a slow boost up to 1.0!, not pulling very fast at all and then a cut out (34)
I reset, tightened everything again (apart from mbc) and tried again.
Same problem. :( very frustrated
Any suggestions as to where and how I can check where the leak is without either sticking someone under the bonnet when I boost or sticking her on a RR which are like hens teeth up here!!!
Are leaks obvious when not on boost? Can I use something like cigarette smoke to see if it sucked in anywhere?.... or should I strip everything off again and try to find the mbc pipe ends
Thanks in advance.

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 03, 2016 3:29 pm 
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I believe the common method is to spray a tiny bit of WD40 on each joint when running. If the engine RPM increases - you've found your leak.

Did you undo the chargecooler (turbo to CC or CC to throttle body?) check those.

PS you should have 2 t-pieces on the air filter to turbo.
1) is the breather pipe off the rocker cover.
2) I believe is the idle speed control valve.

Check they are both fitted!

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 03, 2016 5:29 pm 
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Group N

Joined: Sat Jul 16, 2011 8:13 am
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Location: North East (Cullercoats)
Car Model: ST185 CS/RC
Will do, thanks Diceman
Chargecooler was not disturbed.
I will look at 1) and 2}

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 03, 2016 11:46 pm 
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On a 185 you need to reset the ecu (pull fuse) after a code 34 or it runs in a safe mode even if you switch off & restart.

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 04, 2016 9:05 am 
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Group N

Joined: Sat Jul 16, 2011 8:13 am
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Location: North East (Cullercoats)
Car Model: ST185 CS/RC
Done that thanks nibbles (quite a few times now!)
Pouring down here today and the ST205 is in my garage for a waxing so I'll be under the bonnet later.
Does samsco perish? it must be 15 years old now.

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 04, 2016 10:19 am 
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No it doesn't. Remember they make fake boobs from silicone, perishing would make it look like cellulite!

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 04, 2016 12:36 pm 
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Location: North East (Cullercoats)
Car Model: ST185 CS/RC
Cheers, the small branch off the main pipe looks a bit cracked around the joint, I'll tape it up just in case.

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 04, 2016 10:36 pm 
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Diceman wrote:
No it doesn't. Remember they make fake boobs from silicone, perishing would make it look like cellulite!


Don't you remember the scandal a few years ago ?

I've had a samco intake hose perish. Combination of oil mist and heat I suspect.

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 08, 2016 11:36 am 
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Group N

Joined: Sat Jul 16, 2011 8:13 am
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Location: North East (Cullercoats)
Car Model: ST185 CS/RC
Well, I've taken off and cleaned up all pipe/hose joints from filter to turbo plus the two 'T's and taken her for a run.
I managed a couple of quick bursts of boost (no 'fast' roads for miles around here) and did NOT get a 34... yipee! BUT ... something is still amiss... stuttering spool up and tickover down to 300/cuts out.
I have bruised knuckles and cut fingers and have had enough for the time being.
You gotta love these cars :(
Looks like I'm useing the ST205 for my trip away next week.

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 08, 2016 12:03 pm 
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Just re-read the first post. The only way an air leak can increase boost is if it's a leak in the wastegate actuator plumbing - worth a look at this. If it's had TVSV blocked off, maybe check the blocking device is still present & correct & no split in hose. (you would have been working near this stuff)

Slow idle & cutting out may indicate a small air leak still. From your description it sounds like you've eliminated the usual culprit of corrugated hose between afm & turbo. It could also be the result of re-setting the ECU as it will need to re-learn the idle. Try starting it from cold and leaving stood idling for about 20 minutes until fully warm.

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 08, 2016 12:18 pm 
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Group N

Joined: Sat Jul 16, 2011 8:13 am
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Location: North East (Cullercoats)
Car Model: ST185 CS/RC
8) Thanks for that
I know when I fitted the DVBC to the ST205 I blocked the TVSV
On the CS though, an MBC was fitted when I got it and am not sure if TVSV applies to this one?

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 08, 2016 1:10 pm 
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Nibbles wrote:
Just re-read the first post. The only way an air leak can increase boost is if it's a leak in the wastegate actuator plumbing - worth a look at this. If it's had TVSV blocked off, maybe check the blocking device is still present & correct & no split in hose. (you would have been working near this stuff)

Slow idle & cutting out may indicate a small air leak still. From your description it sounds like you've eliminated the usual culprit of corrugated hose between afm & turbo. It could also be the result of re-setting the ECU as it will need to re-learn the idle. Try starting it from cold and leaving stood idling for about 20 minutes until fully warm.


You may be correct but I assume there must have been a leak elsewhere as the turbo was very slow to spool up. My thought was that depending on where the actuator gets a vac/boost signal from (normally the turbo but with a MBC & possible VSV it is not as straight forward) it may not actually be seeing the manifold pressure correctly and hence may not open.

Slow to build boost - turbo is probably making boost but it is leaking badly somewhere or wastegate is stuck open.
Overboost at higher RPM - actuator is not getting a correct boost reading or is stuck shut.

Of course there is another scenario.... Jeff always a had a small vac/boost leak and the ECU learnt this and adjusted idle control valve settings and Jeff adjusted his MBC to compensate for the leak. Now he has fixed the leak it is overboosting and needs to relearn the idle settings!

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Grey St185 RC
Silver BMW E46 M3
Multicolour yawn Honda VFR400
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 08, 2016 6:16 pm 
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Group N

Joined: Sat Jul 16, 2011 8:13 am
Posts: 220
Location: North East (Cullercoats)
Car Model: ST185 CS/RC
Thanks..Could be spot on there.
After a second run I parked up on my drive and started squirting WD40 on the joints.....
Low and behold (at no particular point) the tickover settled down to a nice 7/800 and blipping throttle caused a smooth increase in revs!
Had to go and rescue my Hyundai Amica from my tame mechanic (in for a permanent engine light) to be told it is the CAT and ... dealer only supply!!! fook that!
Cars are wonderfull.
Just got to sort the ST205 for Don and all will be well.
I owe you guys. I'll donate in a couple of weeks (if) when I get back from holiday on Lindisfarne :)

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