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PostPosted: Fri Apr 15, 2016 10:11 pm 
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Ive been doing a cambelt/water pump, tensioner, pulley type swap on Arsey and thought I would share my joy of the crank pulley bolt removal technique.

It is torqued up to around 107 Nm apparently so thought removal would be a breeze with access to a decent compressor, air impact gun, mains powered impact gun and mini brazing torch for heat. The air tools and mains impact gun go upto around 500-600Nm. Didn't shift the bolt one bit. Apply heat, still nothing.

Method used was to place vehicle in 5th gear with handbrake on (to use the car as the restraining force and to stop the crank rotating) and wedge the wheel studs with a breaker bar (of the wheel removed to gain access to said bleeping bolt). Attach a 1 metre breaker bar to crank pulley and add an extra 0.5m by use of trolley jack handle. Sit on end of gurt-longous breaker assembly and bounce like a demented babboon whilst simultaneously clonking the bolt hard with 5lb lump hammer. (you know those wind up cymbal bashing monkey toys.....) It shifts about 1/4 turn. Breaker bar/babboon combo alone still won't shift it so return to babboon bounce, clonk, clonk, babboon bounce whilst also dismounting, un winding the 1/2 turn of tension the transmisison is taking up and shifting the breaker bar 1/6 turn at a time. circa 2 full revolutions of babboon bounce, clonk, clonk, babboon bounce, dismount, repeat and it's free and I am on my bum on the floor but happy.

I have left out the process of the multiple tools I made up to lock the crank pulley that bent/sheared or finally snapped the retaining bolts in the crank pulley and will gloss over the great big bulbous black thumb I have from a 5lb lump hammer, thumb,crank pulley sandwich whilst trying to remove the snapped bolts in the now removed crank pulley and just leave you with 2 bits of advice: -

1) let a garage do it and do the babboon bounce to the pub instead.
2) attack it straight away with a bloody expensive 1600NM or more impact gun (as I believe you can hire from good tool rental shops for £20-£30)

I would estimate you need at least 1200NM and an impact/shock to break it free based on my maths/weight. That's a jolly lot.

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PostPosted: Sun Apr 17, 2016 4:46 am 
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or just wedge the breaker bar against the ground and crank the engine over.


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 17, 2016 9:33 am 
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Kelt wrote:
or just wedge the breaker bar against the ground and crank the engine over.


It hasn't failed me yet.

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PostPosted: Sun Apr 17, 2016 10:59 am 
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Hmm,
Maybe it was mine was just tight or the smaller battery reduced the torque but that method didn't shift it.

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 18, 2016 3:09 pm 
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The bar on the ground won't work if its got rust on the outer edge of the washer flange to the pulley.

Chris, remember we used impact chissel, heat all sorts to get mine off one time


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 18, 2016 11:04 pm 
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Must be the Alzheimers. Did the bar on the ground fail then ?

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 20, 2016 12:01 pm 
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Nibbles wrote:
Must be the Alzheimers. Did the bar on the ground fail then ?


Yes, even with battery being jumpered to a running engine for a few extra volts :-(

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 20, 2016 8:48 pm 
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So it was tight then JP ?

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 20, 2016 9:26 pm 
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Certainly FT!

My thumb is now not swollen but still bloody tender.

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