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PostPosted: Mon May 02, 2016 11:07 pm 
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Has anybody any experience of using this stuff? It basically seems to be a super hard paint that gets stronger if you get it wet!

It is reported to have been designed to paint oil rigs with and a few DIY car restoration forums have suggested using it for under body components as a means of rust prevention.

https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rct=j ... 3iVMZgi6Jg

I know that lots have powder coated their subframes & arms but IMHO this is not an ideal application for powder coat and hence I am seeking alternatives. The main issue I have with powder coating is that it offers nothing to stop the oxidisation process of the base metal but relies on keeping the compoenent sealed from the elements, as soon as it is chipped, moisture can penetrate under surface. (Yes I know I may be a little OCD)

In an ideal world the component would be hot-dipped galvanised, etch primed and then painted with a durable, non-chipping & hard paint. Some components simply can't be heated for HD galvanising so a zinc paint followed by etch primer by hard paint is the only practical solution I can think of at present (not as good as the galvanising can't get to the inner crevices.)

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PostPosted: Tue May 03, 2016 3:05 pm 
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I think nial has used it on his 205 build

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PostPosted: Thu May 05, 2016 1:10 pm 
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It is quite highly regarded I believe although quite expensive in the amounts needed I am told.

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PostPosted: Thu May 05, 2016 10:53 pm 
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http://www.celica-club.co.uk/forum/inde ... tproofing/

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PostPosted: Sat May 07, 2016 12:48 am 
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Location: Perth, Western Australia
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All my subframes and rebuilt rear diffs were zinc coated after media blasting then powder coated. For the subframes I then sprayed the interiors with Bilt Hamber Dynax S-50 cavity wax anti-corrosion treatment. I think Steve ended up just re-painting his subframes but his Fours are now driveway queens :lol:

As Dave said, I'm pretty sure Nial used POR 15 paint on his build. He had some sort of drama with paint reacting although whether he had used POR at that stage I'm not too sure. It was a sod of a job to re-prep the car although I recall it was the underbody that was the area affected .

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PostPosted: Tue May 24, 2016 2:19 pm 
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So I have trialled use of the POR15 on one of the TRD Rally/Dirt struts fitted to project Arsey (briefly removed to fit a new top mount).

Firstly it is expensive, seems around £40 for a 473ml tin once you factor in the paint prep spray as well which seems to be a form of rust converter and acid etch built into one from the appearance of the strut. It is reported that it doesn't like sitting in the tin for long and will go off, I guess I will probably find out!

Preperation was to wire brush down the strut using a drill attachment to remove any flaking corrosion and dirt, thorough degrease using a process of Gunk then clothing washing liquid neat to remove the Gunk, Billt Hamber rust remover applied, washed and a thorough wire brushing again to remove any form of rust and texture the surface for good paint adhesion. Finally the strut received a through degrease again with a final additional stage of brake cleaner. All strut vent holes where plugged during painting.

Strut was then treated with the POR15 metal prep which didn't really have any rust to work on but left a dull finish akin to an acid etch primer or hot-dipped galvanizing. Finally the POR15 paint could be applied.

The paint resembles the old style hammerite and is thick and gloopy, supposedly self flatting to remove brush marks like an oil based wood paint you may use on interior door frames. It can be applied using a brush or sprayed if dilluted with a tiny bit of thinners. Unfortunately I opted for brush application. Now to the first hurdle, it runs for fun, it isn't as easy to apply as oil based wood paint and seems to like a fair bit of paint applied to self flatten so it's very easy to overdo it (which I probably did!)

IMHO it is best suited to large flat surfaces that can accomodate some extra thickness caused by the paint, I'd seriously consider using this on underbody crossmembers etc where you don't have the cavity open.

It is bleeping hard once fully dried, I had a little run that ended up in the eye for the struts where the hub bolt should fit, it didn't quite due to the run! As it was so hard I ended up tapping a thread into the paint run to allow the bolt to fit, I should have measured the amount of torque it would withstand to give you an idea on how hard this stuff dries but on the Carter scale I'd suggest it was "one grunt with a 1/2" ratchet" and left the POR15 intact.

The other aspect is it is sensitive to UV and will suffer colour wise if not painted over with another paint (POR do offer finishing paint). I have left as is, the primary purpose is to preserve not to bling and as the strut is mainly screened from sunlight it's unlikely to be a major issue.

I will use it again for similar purposes but the prep was incredibly time consuming and I will research how "area specific" media blasters can be as the strut can't be dissassembled. This would save a lot of time.

I will report back once it's been on the car for some time but all in all it's a pretty good solution if care is taken on prep and application.

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PostPosted: Sat May 28, 2016 9:16 pm 
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I have mixed feelings about this stuff. On small things like arms etc it seems to be okay.....just.
it doesn't like wire brushed surfaces, even after the paint prep stuff, large flat areas, there is better out there. I painted the entire underside of my ST205 after wire brushing....it took me six months to do, the por 15 peeled off like a giant plaster, like peeling sun burn. The lot peeled off in no time. It's better with sand blasted surfaces and really needs over painting with the ultra hard top coat that is quite good but a nightmare to apply without runs.

A better option is epoxy mastic 121, it's really gun only stuff, but sticks better than por15 and does better on the classic car three year test where epoxy mastic came out top, por15 didn't do too well. The only trouble with it is its dam expensive, but worth it, cheap paint is cheap for a reason, I recon I have spent well over 1k on paint so far...and I ain't done yet.

Would I buy por15 again? Err no not really, only their glisten r clearcoat which I quite like and seems to stick better than the por15.

You might also check on Eastwood chassis black extreme, expensive, but goes a long way, I don't rate it as much as the epoxy mastic, but I prefer it to por15.

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PostPosted: Sat May 28, 2016 10:55 pm 
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Interesting comments. I will hav a look at the epoxy mastic stuff. Although I have a compressor and a decent spray gun I hate using them due to noise, mass and ventilation issues I a domestic environment so would farm out the work.

Many thanks

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PostPosted: Sun May 29, 2016 8:04 am 
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The tirck i have found when using a compressor, buy one of the mini guns, i bought a cheapo £12 gun from amazon and although crap quality, it does a cracking job spraying, use a low pressure, about 30psi ish it has very little overspray, takes a little longer than with a full sized gun, but alot less wastage from overspray.

You can hand paint the 121 but it dries streaky even after being thinned a little. You could try a mini roller?

I only have a one car garage, i just splashed out on a 3m full face mask with chemical filters, and just keep the door shut so it dosnt annoy the neighbours, been okay so far.

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PostPosted: Sun May 29, 2016 9:41 am 
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I think I'd end up buying a sacrificial shed tbh.

Interesting on the mini guns, may be worth considering.

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PostPosted: Sun May 29, 2016 10:35 am 
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This is the gun I purchased, not the best in the world, but I get good results from it.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00 ... UTF8&psc=1

Combine it with one of these,

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01 ... UTF8&psc=1

admittedly costs more than the gun but you can reuse it with your other guns. I also have an inline mini filter which I know to stop spraying when I see water in it so I don't spray moisture into the paint.

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PostPosted: Sun May 29, 2016 7:51 pm 
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I bought one of the small guns following Nials recommendation and can confirm it to be very handy for keeping the over spray down and less bulky so easy to get into tight angles etc...........

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