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PostPosted: Sun Dec 11, 2016 10:56 pm 
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Joined: Sun Nov 27, 2016 11:03 pm
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Good afternoon, I'm removing the head from the car to replace the gasket.

The problem arises when, to remove the cylinder head, all the wiring that goes above the intake manifold must be removed.
To remove all the wiring you have to disconnect many things, so the solution for me is to remove the intake manifold

This one has reinforcements underneath and some screws from the bottom that grab it to the butt, but you can not put the hand behind.

For the guys who have removed the cylinder head or intake manifold, exactly how did you do it?

Many thanks

p.d: WIRING/CABLE


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 12, 2016 12:24 am 
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Joined: Sat Sep 02, 2006 3:13 pm
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Location: Bournemouth
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There are 2 manifold stays which you will need to undo. If the manifold is going to come off you'll also need to loosen or undo the block end as well as manifold end. They are a pig to get to, and if tight will require the front & rear (of car) engine mounts undone so you can rock the engine forward and get a decent bar on them.

Be aware that from the loom that goes above the manifold, there are wires that go down through to underneath and attach to knock sensor on block, ECU Earth on the underside of the manifold and also solenoids mounted on the underside.

You will probably need to remove that wiring anyway before the head comes off as it runs above the cam belt area. You need to remove the alternator anyway as it's bracket bolts to head & block, there are only a couple more plugs to undo at that end, plus undo the plugs on injectors & sensors in manifold (which you'll need to do anyway) and the loom will lift out from the cambelt end and hinge at the gearbox end.

Exhaust side, it's easiest to undo the 4 nuts holding turbo to manifold and leave manifold on head and turbo & plumbing attached to block. The 2 lift apart as the head comes off. Saves a lot of time disassembling as suggested by the BGB, plus taking the manifold off the head usually results in snapped studs or damaged threads in the head which then need helicoiling.

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Last edited by Nibbles on Mon Dec 12, 2016 12:43 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Mon Dec 12, 2016 12:40 am 
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p.s. a few pictures you may find helpful.

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Image

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PostPosted: Mon Dec 12, 2016 12:46 am 
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p.p.s

In case your reasearches haven't already flagged this up, you should consider swapping to a metal head gasket as fitted as standard to the st205 model. The downside is that both mating faces need to be very clean & flat, often advisable to have a light head skim.

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If at first you don't suck seed, try drier grain.

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PostPosted: Mon Dec 12, 2016 5:28 pm 
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Some comprehensive info there.
I can confirm it's a right pain to take off with the engine in....but doable.

I removed all BUT the gearbox engine mount. So front, back and cam belt side.
I rested the sump on a Jack and I got the scissor jack out the boot and used it to create more space between the bulkhead and the engine. Then I could get my arm up behind the block and undo those stays.
Careful though as the propshaft can come out the gearbox if you push it too far.

As already said, getting the loom off is relatively easy.


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