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PostPosted: Thu Mar 30, 2006 8:58 am 
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hi :)

i think i may have an oil leak from the bottom of the dipstick where it goes into the block, it seems to be coming from here and running onto the exhaust

do you know if the dipstick can be tightened up from the outside or do i need to drop the sump in order to inspect it?

thanks :)

btw, got the cage welded in and its pretty cool :)

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 30, 2006 9:42 am 
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You sure it's not leaking from the oil filter? Dunno what car you have.......185 or 205.
I spilt some oil from the filter when I dropped it and it went everywhere. It's still dripping out now but my oil level is spot on so I know it's that and not a leak....

Steve


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 30, 2006 9:50 am 
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i have the original and best ;)
it could be leaking from the filter. i hope it is tbh as i have a blitz racing one and some millers 10w60 oil to do this weekend (plus dizzie cap and rotor arm)

i'll have a proper look this weekend when im doing the fmic cradle (again, need to move it back an inch) but if anyone can answer my original question that would be nice :)

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 30, 2006 10:27 am 
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Andy,

I'm not certain on the 165 but I do know the 205

The dipstick is externally fixed so no need to remove the sump. As I recall there's no fixing at the base, just the top fixing in the alternator.
There's also a little O ring on the base of the dipstick tube which is an interference fit into the engine block

So, on the 205, if you undo the alternator area nut you can pull the dipstick out of the block and change the O ring seal which, on yours, is probably suspect. Mine was in a sorry state


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 30, 2006 10:29 am 
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cheers steve, that sounds like a plan =)

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 30, 2006 9:56 pm 
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Andy, The Dipstick tube is an interference fit only with no seal.
I would first take a look above the tube i.e turbo oil feed pipe or the dipstick itself.
Is it the original 18 year old dipstick with work hardened rubber on it? :wink:

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 31, 2006 10:48 am 
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lol yes steve it possibly is
i did have "issues" with it blowing out of the tube until i wrapped it in PTFE tape. =)

ill whip the rocker cover off at the weekend too and check for any obstructions

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 05, 2006 4:50 pm 
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brief update.
i found the dipstick had sheared off where it goes into the block, leaving the interference part of the stick still inside the block. i tried, but couldnt get it out. so i used epoxy metal and kinda glued the dipstick back on.

so far, its held but i have real doubts about its longevity.

:(

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 05, 2006 5:16 pm 
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Andy - I suspect this will only ever be a temporary repair, and it's bound to fail and the worst possible opportunity!

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 05, 2006 9:03 pm 
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Thought you were welding it back on Andy?


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 05, 2006 10:06 pm 
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didnt have access to a welder last weekend so did the best bodge i could.


will probably mig weld it on next wednesday, provided it holds in the meantime...

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 05, 2006 11:08 pm 
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Andy - are you concerned that the heat may impact on the 4.5 litres of oil in the sump?

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 06, 2006 7:49 am 
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that never really occured to me kris...

it will most likely end up being migwelded around the outside of the tube, although theres a fair amount of heat generated locally, the thick iron block will absorb much of this before it even gets near the oil. theres a good 4 inches between the block wall where the dipstick enters and where the oil level is.

its millers racing oil so it wont be affected by any heat</flippant>
:)

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 06, 2006 11:00 am 
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Andy - you do realise that you can't normally just weld onto iron? It needs to be heated in an oven, welded, then cooled if the quality is to be good.

You could braze it in place depending on the type of joint?

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 06, 2006 3:57 pm 
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i didnt know that mike, my level of welding at the mo is simply welding one bar onto another :)

im going to see my engineer mate tonight and see what his opinion is :)

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