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PostPosted: Thu Apr 20, 2006 5:30 pm 
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From looking at your pictures i would say your right sirius,

it does look easier to take the 205 out from the top. i dont know i havent done a 205 yet.

185 is definitely easier out the bottom though.

Quote: Kelt,

How do you do it in situ?

I have only ever seen it done out of the car and that looked difficult enough!!

Please, if you are feeling generous, do share this with us in the form of a write up!

I have done a write up on the OC Loosey, but i dont know how to get it on to here,

I have it in word format and i will post it with my membership form and maybe you can put it in the guides section.

I'm doing it again soon, i will take more pictures this time to go with the written guide.

:D


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 20, 2006 11:13 pm 
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Location: Sunny Fareham, UK
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Quote:
I'm doing it again soon, i will take more pictures this time to go with the written guide.

Pictures would be great! Please send these to any Member of Staff with some words! :D

I suspect out of the top recommendation for the 205 is because of the subframes on the 205. But to be honest there is only a few bolts holding in the main subframe and front/rear one

The biggest problem for "out of the bottom" on the 205 is clearance, in order to slide the engine in and out under the car

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95 ST205 - slept for 10 years, now waking up...
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Turbocharging - the replacement for displacement


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 21, 2006 9:05 am 
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The worst issue I had with out the bottom was really the steering colum UJ which proved a right PITA.
From memory the crossmember has 6 bolts but having dropped it you do have a few clearance issues getting it out.
If I go this way again I shall invest in a sheet of 1/2" ply and some broom handles to make up a rolling platform Roman style


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 21, 2006 9:09 am 
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Quote:
The worst issue I had with out the bottom was really the steering colum UJ which proved a right PITA


You can leave the steering rack in place, no need to remove the rack. But for info the bolt needs to be completely withdrawn from the connection in order for the rack to seperate from the UJ.

The rack needs to be unbolted from the subframe - it is secured by 2 bolts which are readily accessible from either wheel arch.

The rack also requires the bolt to be undo securing the pipe to the power steering pump :)

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Kris
95 ST205 - slept for 10 years, now waking up...
Avensis
http://www.gtfours.co.uk
_______________________________________
Turbocharging - the replacement for displacement


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 21, 2006 9:32 am 
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I agree.

Scott ans I just dropped the whole shooting match, rack, driveshafts, suspension etc etc. I would not do this again!


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PostPosted: Sun May 07, 2006 5:35 pm 
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Have just done my clutch this weekend on my 185, did it by dropping the gearbox. It took 2 of us the best part of 2 days to do.

Also so don't know if anybody else has come across this problem whem fitting an alloy flywheel but we found that when you depressed the clutch the flywheel would rub against the plate at the bottom of the bellhouseing so we had to grind a small bit of the plate to stop this happening.

God it spins up fast now.

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PostPosted: Sun May 07, 2006 10:15 pm 
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Car Model: ST205
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the flywheel would rub against the plate at the bottom of the bellhouseing


Which flywheel did you fit?

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Kris
95 ST205 - slept for 10 years, now waking up...
Avensis
http://www.gtfours.co.uk
_______________________________________
Turbocharging - the replacement for displacement


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PostPosted: Mon May 08, 2006 9:27 am 
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Bought the complete kit from Ian couldn't find any makers names on it.

Big problem now is overboosting, with the full 3" exhaust I'm hitting fuel cut in a matter of moments,have to drive with one eye on my boost gauge.

I'm takeing the car in to get a 21/2" section put in at the Flexi to see if that will help.

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PostPosted: Wed May 10, 2006 1:47 pm 
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I need to replace my clutch soon and was wondering what particular clutches are revered by 205 owners?

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1986 ST165. 148,000km on chassis
ST205 WRC engine / IC system / rear LSD 78,000km on engine
Aussie 3" dump pipe/3" system
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PostPosted: Wed May 10, 2006 2:17 pm 
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Running less than 300bhp the stock clutch is your friend (unless you do a lot of drag racing and full blooded launches)

Beyond that there's a lot of devided opinion, but for cost and feel I would use the stock one all the time you can get away with it.

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PostPosted: Wed May 10, 2006 5:12 pm 
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I'd agree, having run 300+bhp on a stock clutch now for four or five years with lots of track days but NO drags

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1994 Toyota Celica GT-Four ST205WRC JDM 269bhp @ 0.9bar
1994 Toyota Celica GT-Four Special GT 590bhp @ 1.8bar
1989 Van Diemen RF88/89 Formula Ford 1600
2008 Nissan Patrol GU 3.0L ZD30DDTi 154bhp


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PostPosted: Wed May 10, 2006 10:36 pm 
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Location: Camberley, Surrey
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Going to do a update on this tomorrow with some nice pictures, in summary the engine is back in the car and things are being plumbed in. I'm having a bit of trouble getting the driveshafts to go back in. Is there any trick to doing this?

Cheers :)

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PostPosted: Wed May 10, 2006 10:54 pm 
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I'll come over with my 'sledge tomorrow night Mike :lol:

Seriously, when my N/S driveshaft 'popped out' of the diff it was easy to put back in......or is it the hub end you are having probs with?

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Don
GT4DC Chairman
1994 Toyota Celica GT-Four ST205WRC JDM 269bhp @ 0.9bar
1994 Toyota Celica GT-Four Special GT 590bhp @ 1.8bar
1989 Van Diemen RF88/89 Formula Ford 1600
2008 Nissan Patrol GU 3.0L ZD30DDTi 154bhp


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PostPosted: Wed May 10, 2006 11:14 pm 
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Its the gearbox end thats causing the problems at the moment. :?

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PostPosted: Thu May 11, 2006 4:48 pm 
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Mike - have experienced similar issues. A piece of wood, a hammer and a well aimed thump helped the driveshaft into place :)

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Kris
95 ST205 - slept for 10 years, now waking up...
Avensis
http://www.gtfours.co.uk
_______________________________________
Turbocharging - the replacement for displacement


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