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 Post subject: code 54
PostPosted: Wed Oct 19, 2005 7:23 pm 
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does code 54 only happen on the 205,i only ever hear you guys moan about it :?


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 19, 2005 7:33 pm 
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This error code also features on the 165 and the 185 CS/RC unfortunately.

Saying that, it doesn't seem to be so much of a problem in those cars, but maybe that's because they are rarer?

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PostPosted: Fri Oct 21, 2005 6:33 am 
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Just the mention of error code 54 strikes fear into my heart :?


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PostPosted: Fri Oct 21, 2005 8:28 pm 
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Why?....nine times out of ten all you need to do to fix it is top up the fluid.....or is the cause of your code 54 more obscure?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Oct 21, 2005 9:02 pm 
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Unfortunately I am with Don on this one. Normally a code 54 is easy to fix :)

A simple top up with fluid with a "trick" method is all that is normally required ;)

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PostPosted: Sat Oct 22, 2005 6:30 am 
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I was preying it was just the simple matter of topping up the fluid levels but I have done that, reset the ecu and still getting code 54. :(

I think the next step is to disconnect the sensor but I would not be too happy with doing that. :?

I might be making a mountain out of a mole hill but I'm sure we all have heard some horror stories about error code 54s, just scared that my story might be the next one! :roll:

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Oct 22, 2005 9:27 am 
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Wolfie - sometimes a trick method is required in order to get the IC as full as possible, try this:

Start car, open IC note fluid level, blip throttle, note fluid level drops, top up IC and quickly put the IC cap back on. Reset the ECU and then see what happens :)

Failing that I'd recommend you test the sensor and inspect the connection, then make sure the motor runs when you blip the throttle - some people have been surprised when they find their pump knackered and not even running! :shock:

I'll be interested to hear how you get on! :)

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Last edited by Kris on Sat Oct 22, 2005 9:32 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Sat Oct 22, 2005 9:31 am 
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Thanks alot Kris :D

I'll be sure to try out your suggestions and will deffo let ya know how I get on. I really hope it works.................

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Oct 23, 2005 12:39 pm 
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anyone have a link to a "how to" wire the eco to think the pump is running all the time...i know saf had a method.

Its just im removing the ic for a fmic when enigine done and need to wire her up properly. i know Alex Knight burnt out some exhaust valves due to the ecu retarding excesively due to code 54

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PostPosted: Sun Oct 23, 2005 1:31 pm 
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Mat - I haven't looked into this, but I believe there is a bit more to it than just putting in a resistor to fool the ECU into thinking the pump is there

As an interim measure you could always just loop the output of the pump back into the input?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Oct 23, 2005 9:58 pm 
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cheers kris

Im going to be putting a full standalone ecu in my beastie anyway, its just so i can get rolling once the engines back in. im probably going to have it fitter with the chargecooler to get it run in then change it after doing the ecu.

Although i have other issue to consider like my 800cc sard injects and cam profiles to consider. I understand i may have a few running issues with this on the stick ecu....ill soon find out anyway :D


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Oct 24, 2005 10:40 am 
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Mat you won't be able to run anything other than the stock 550cc injectors on stock ECU m8, though the cams issue shouldn't prove as big a problem. I'm running HKS 264s on mine and still on stock ECU - although I have some overfuelling issues it still goes well and managed 307bhp with no det problems, its just not optimal setup without the added control from a proper ECU solution. I also have some Sard 800's to go on but again, that can't happen till I have the ECU issue resolved.

Cheers,
Mark

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Oct 24, 2005 12:30 pm 
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Quote:
Unfortunately I am with Don on this one. Normally a code 54 is easy to fix :)


My old girl Krude happens to be the contrary to this statement!! :cry:

She spends most of her time being more retarded then Forest Gump & David Beckham!!!!

Thinking of bridging the CC sensor now to see if this will make a difference :shock:


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Oct 24, 2005 12:45 pm 
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krude wrote:
Quote:
Unfortunately I am with Don on this one. Normally a code 54 is easy to fix :)


My old girl Krude happens to be the contrary to this statement!! :cry:

She spends most of her time being more retarded then Forest Gump & David Beckham!!!!

Thinking of bridging the CC sensor now to see if this will make a difference :shock:


Do you know if the CC pump runs?

If you start the car, remove the CC filler cap and blip the throttle can you see the CC fluid level drop or other signs of the pupm running?
If not you might be one of the few who do have a genuine pump problem. If not it might just go away with a level sensor bridge and an ECU reset...


Kris wrote:
Mat - I haven't looked into this, but I believe there is a bit more to it than just putting in a resistor to fool the ECU into thinking the pump is there


A cursory inspection of JP's dismantled one revelas that a simple resistor might cure it

IIRC on his all 3 wires were simple connected together in the loom.
JP should be able to confirm........


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Oct 24, 2005 1:22 pm 
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Yeah the CC pump runs fine, level drops we then slapped more fluid in while doing that, still having the problems.

I dont want to bridge the sensor but I cant see any other way round it.
I could bridge the sensor & still have the problems though :roll: :roll:


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