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PostPosted: Wed Nov 19, 2008 3:20 pm 
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Looking good! Nice to see another one saved. You're lucky the interior panels in the boot are unharmed, they could have cut them up for the wicked sound system.. :D

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Turbocelica.nl | ST185 CS restoration and full rebuild

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 20, 2008 9:56 pm 
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Hi JP, hopefully this will show the pass over starter mtr
Image

next post will be the 162 side feed


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 20, 2008 11:08 pm 
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Many thanks DJ,
Looks like I am pretty close :-)

I hope to have delivery of the ST162 manifold tomorrow so can then review fuel rail & injectors & thottle body.

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 20, 2008 11:37 pm 
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Here's something that may be of interest on eBay here
Check out the pictures in the listing :)

N.B. Moderator Edit: To avoid losing this valuable information when the eBay link is removed I have reproduced the text below

Used Toyota 3SGE Intake Manifold.

Great Upgrade For 3SGTE Engines!

Due to budget restraints, I have to sell off some of my upgrade parts. This 3SGE intake manifold is a great way to keep the intercooler piping away from the exhaust manifold.

Here are some comments from a Celica owner that did this upgrade.

Well I don't exactly have pics of the install but I have some of the final project and let me tell you it runs great! First off I didn't really install this manifold for performance (although it does seem to have more throttle resonse) I mostly did it because I didnt like how I had to route my IC piping so while I was at it I also clocked my CT20b so the final result is that I have very little IC piping. Intallation was pretty straight forward but I wouldnt say its something you could do in a couple hours. I have a 92 JDM 3S-GTE and I used a 89 3S-GE intake manifold that I found.

I first removed the stock intake manifold, including the throttle body, all the coolant lines going to the TB (be sure to mark these), the vacuum line that goes to the air conditioner idle control valve. I then removed the throttle body from the 3S-GTE manifold and installed on the 3S-GE manifold and it fits very nicely. Before I could install the 3S-GE manifold I had a few things that I had to relocate. First off I had to move the AC idle control valve because it was interfering with the TPS (throttle position sensor). You could probably use the one that comes on the 3S-GE but the one on mine was broken. I also had to take the harness off the engine where it goes by the injectors and then goes across the valve cover to the alt. It may be different for you guys with the US harnesses but since my car is RHD and I still have the JDM harness, I didnt have to extend or cut any wires, I just took the loom off the harness and pulled the wires that go to the TB (throttle body) out to where they needed to be and the put the loom back on and taped the loom with electrical tape, I also removed the plastic piece that guards the wires and bolts to the intake manifold and just taped the wires where they go by the injectors. I could then install the manifold and I used the 3S-GTE TVIS plate since mine is already gutted (the 3S-GE and 3S-GTE TVIS plates are the same). After bolting in the manifold I used some coolant line from autozone and run the coolant lines fromthe TB. I also used vacuum line from autozone to run the vacuum hose from the TB to the AC idle control valve. The hose that goes from the the fuel rail to the cold start injector on the 3S-GTE is too short so I used the one from the 5S-FE, I also used some of the screw in vacuum ports from the 5sfe manifold. Also I don't have the vacuum lines run to the PS idle up and I dont have TVIS as it is gutted.

The manifold is used but in very nice condition. It was from a 86-89 Toyota Celica GTS with the 3S-GE engine. I will include everything that came with the manifold. Paypal is my preferred form of payment, but I will accept Money Orders and Certified Bank Checks. Sorry, but shipping is only offered to the lower 48 states in the USA. Winning bidder will be emailed with the UPS tracking number after payment has cleared. The picture of the manifold on the ground is what I am selling you. The other 2 pictures are courtesy of the owner that did the manifold swap from the post above.

Image

Image

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PostPosted: Fri Nov 21, 2008 12:04 am 
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Nice,
just how it should be :-)
should make access & maintenance easy, IC pipe work simpler, shorter etc.

Hopefully will get it all mocked up over the weekend on spare engine.

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PostPosted: Mon Dec 15, 2008 12:05 am 
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Bit of a small update, progress is slow and the more I remove the more botches I find!

Started off by giving the AFM a good clean as the previous turbo failure had resulted in thick gunk everywhere...

Image
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not only had the flange been butchered but the adaptor left a gaping hole that allowed air to bypass the air filter.
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luckily managed to pick up an RC AFM with K&N filter (that is fitted properly) and even came with a loom extender to allow a straight air intake to be fitted and still connect the AFM wires.
Image


I have been trying to figure out the best way to connect the turbo oil & water lines.
Whilst teh TB Developments turbo kit did come with some (it was a used kit) they were for a T205 and I was not happy with most of them.
e.g. oil return pipe had loads of joins & I was not overly happy with a jubilee clip holding on the hose to the turbo adaptor.
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this could not connect to the connector on the ST185 oil sump.
Image

A new threaded adaptor was fitted in place..
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and a 90 degree take off installed that woudl accept a braided hose.
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the turbo end requires a special Garrett adaptor with flange that I had a length of braided hose crimped & swaged to (think automotive) which minimises the number of connections and doesn;t mena you have a jubilee clip in teh near vicinity of the turbo being subjected to the heat cycling.
Image

I still have to cut the hose and tighten up the connection but it also located the oil drain braided hose away from the downpipe and block whilst maintaining a downhill direction for the oil flow.

Unfortunately after 4 weeks I am still waiting for the turbo oil feed adaptor to come in to stock at Think Auto which will allow me to complete the turbo oil setup.

Water feed & return.....
The St185 has a rather different water flow layout to the ST205 which has taken some time to understand. I had orginally intended to install a swirl pot in the top rad hose and add another water connection to the turbo.

standard water hose arrangement
Image

I had wrongly assumed that this was the water return line and not the feed but on closer inspection of teh Toyota coolant flow diagram it appears that the return runs back in to one of the metal pipes running along the front of the block and as such the feed is the one shown in the above picture (can't use the swirl pot they way I had intended, not sure if I can take the water feed for turbo from the bottom of the swirl pot though). I will scratch my head a bit more to come up with my preffered option.

I am slowly gathering bits to facilitate the install of the DTA S60 Pro ECU
Image
Oil & Fuel Pressure sensors with flying leads and Loom plugs. Turbo boost pressure control valve (VAG part) Made in Monaco! explains the pricing I guess. Some new ECU loom plugs to allow me to build up a loom.

I was also lucky to be offered these items:-
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I hope I can use this to make a DTA loom adaptor. It was orginally a Toyota diagnostic cable for an auto box. the little chip has been identified as an LED driver (could be handy to swap the feed to the chip from the Auto box to the Knock sensor to create an LED knock meter?)
I also picked up this test loom with the correct Toyota plugs..
Image
Should be a good start for a brand new loom once I get brave and install Coil On Plug etc.

I have been deciding what to do reagrding fuel rail for some time and finally bit teh bullitt and purchased a speedsource top feed fuel rail. The quality appears much better than the Wolfkatz stuff I have seen.
Image
Kris kindly gave me a set of ST165 top feed injectors so can still run the standard ECU should needs must at any point. (ST162 injectors fitted.

The intention is to fit the rail & some new circa 700cc injectors to the rail along with the St162 Inlet manifold..
Image
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Image

I have almost completed the FMIC install, (phase 1 for ST185 inlet manifold!)I need to get my support bar welded up for the core and subsequent GB, Engine & PS coolers to allow final fitment.

The 2 bottom pipes are datajon pipes (he is also making me a top pipe for the ST162 inlet manifold) and I have made up the current top pipes as an interim measure (luckily I have a HD beading machine at work).

The intercooler was a custom design (designed & drawn up by me) to fit the ST185 and manufactured by Pace. I had high aspirations with the core but the cost of putting my bright ideas into practice was astronimical and hence I chose to compromise. Core cost was circa £350 delivered.

Image
Image
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the above picture shows the pipe sitting incorrectly ( too low) This will be adjusted once I get hose clamps and the turbo clocked to the precise position.

Whilst at it I decided to test fit the Golpher radiator and Spal fans. (I have opted for twin blower type)
Image
Image
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That is about it for progress at the moment.
The next phase is to get the oil cooler and intercooler support frame finished/welded and then to start fitment of gearbox, PS & engine oil coolers. I will then get turbo hoses finihsed and swirl pot/header tank mocked up for manufacture.

For reference the gearbox cooler has been removed and these removed from the GB end of the hoses...
Image
I have purchased the cooler & adaptors and some hose taht I will mock up and then have crimped & swaged at Think Auto during my next visit!

For those geeks of you...
I picked up a TTE St185 1.4mm head gasket

Image
discuss :-)

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Dec 15, 2008 1:32 am 
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Here's a concept. I dn't know if it's a good one as I haven't given it a great deal of thought......

Use the swirlpot air/water purge as the water feed for the turbo. Unless you've got serious issues this should flow much more water than air lol
Take the water drain from the turbo to the header tank. Return the header tank to the original turbo water return on the bypass hose

I think it'd work just fine


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 15, 2008 11:45 am 
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Great post JP, thanks for sharing. I've also edited the Vice Chairs earlier post on this thread to retain the 3S-GE manifold info on the forum so we don't lose it.

You are very brave doing all this yourself. I hope it all turns out well for you.

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1994 Toyota Celica GT-Four Special GT 590bhp @ 1.8bar
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 15, 2008 12:01 pm 
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Hmm, Will have to have a think about Steves bright idea. Sounds so simple when he says it!

<quote> You are very brave doing all this yourself. I hope it all turns out well for you. /<Quote>

Brave/stupid Don as you may be aware :-) As always I am treating this as a learning experience and value any input or "you're doing it all wrong" comments :-)

My main concern is getting dirt & stuff in any oil or airway. All items that appear to be fitted have to come off again for thorough cleaning (any engine entry point has been sealed at present).

The ECU wiring & install seems to be snowballing. partly because I don't want loads of redundant guff left laying around the engine bay. I suspect it will be a 2 phase job witha loom adaptor & standard sensors followed by a DIY new loom, COP, ST162 Inlet manifold, fuel rail & injectors.

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 13, 2009 6:23 pm 
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Have purchased a little dash display that links to teh DTA ECU directly :-) Is onlya cheapie and a home / DIY built unit but the specifications are quite advanced.

Hardware:
1 Graphical OLED display, 128x64 pixels, 2000:1 contrast!
1 USB Full Speed port, to upgrade the firmware and as a USB to RS232 convertor.
1 RS232 port for communication between DTA ECU and display.
1 Relay 2A with NO and NC contacts.
1 Digital open collector output (to drive a relay only), switched to ground, internally protected with a flyback diode.
8 High brightness led bar, configurable for any channel available.
2 High brightness alarm red led’s, configurable for any alarm.
1 Navigation knob + 1 button, to navigate true the menu’s, to select different screens and to setup the display.

Software:
- Supports all DTA ECU’s, E48 (any firmware version), P8PRO and all S-series.
- Auto detection of the ECU connected to the display, which sets automatically the serial speed and available channels.
- ‘Data stream ‘ function, only available with ECU’s that supports data stream, seven screens available, from which six are configurable.
- ‘Dyno stream’ function, available for all ECU’s, can access all channels which are displayed in the DTA(S)win software. Also, seven screens available, from which six are configurable.
- ‘Snapshot’ function, with one press on the navigation knob you can freeze the display and view 3 seconds of recorded data with the navigation knob. Useful to diagnose small engine hesitations/mal functions ( was asked by someone which uses the first version of the display).
- 8 alarm set’s, completely configurable for any channel, to any output, can also be configured to trigger only when two conditions are met, thus for example, trigger an alarm only above 100kPa when lambda is also above 13.5 AFR.
- Led Bar, completely configurable on any channel ,lower and upper limits. When the value of the channel goes beyond the scale, all 8 led’s will flicker.
- Bar Graph, all channels are configurable with lower and upper limits, has also three modes of display, plain, bar or blocks.
- System Unit’s, wide offer of different units to choose from, instead of the original units used by the DTA ECU.
- ECU info, displays the hardware info of the ECU, and which map is currently used with a brief discription.
- USB to RS232 bridge or adaptor, let’s you to switch between the display or DTA(S)win software, when connected to a PC USB port, without the need to swap cables from the ECU to the PC/Display (no need to buy a separate USB adaptor for laptops without an RS232 port).
- Firmware upgradable via the USB port, newer Firmware will be send to you when available.

Future Software functions:
- Save and load up to eight different ECU map’s.
- Log capabilities, log and display any channel available, useful for ECU’s without or with only limited log functionalities.


Image
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Should be arriving next week :-)

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jan 15, 2009 4:51 pm 
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Hi,

WOW great project, do you want to mount the display instead the OEM dashboard?

a small tipp from me: a in front of the radiator mounted fan has only 70% power against a behind mounted fan, the fan redirect the air before she should flow through the straight fins of the radiator, a restriction is to follow

so if you see any chance to mount the fan's behind the radiator......i would consider :)

greetz

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 15, 2009 5:40 pm 
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Very nice work. Great that you saved another one from a disaster. All that MDF mush have weighed a ton. How much have you spent so far on aftermarket parts?


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 15, 2009 10:39 pm 
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Whilst not an expert at fan flows etc. I think one of the main reasons for putting the fans forward of the radiator is the space between the radiator and the turbo. With the fans on the rear side they would be very close I think.

This right JP? :)

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 15, 2009 11:27 pm 
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yes with the Garrett turbo space is at a premium in the engine bay.

I don't get your point about 70% efficiency (I am thinking about a stationary car as is only time when fans are really required) Reason = one side sucks... one side blows. I am happy to listen to any bright ideas/explanation :-)

How much on aftermarket parts :-(

Turbo £900
IC & pipes £600
ECU £600
Dash....... Coil-Overs......

I will stop before it gets too painful :-)

I will probably have to keep the standard dash for odometer :-( Not that I will need it for anything else.

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PostPosted: Fri Jan 16, 2009 2:28 pm 
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Hi,

the best for a radiator is no fan for max flow, but this is a problem :D

the fan also works if you drive slow or/and in the city or under hard conditionm, specially in summer and when you really drive the car :D

i got many info's from a TTE engineer

example:

the ST185 CS bonnet-vent up the turbo is ok, the ST205 vent not, the air flow break-away edge is not high enought so only 1/3 keeps air out of the engine bay and in 2/3 the air flow's back

but a better example or idea is:

you can build anything like a channel from the bumper to the radiator, the C-One engine cooling panel ST205 is also therefor (back pressure will raise), and a break-away edge on the underside behind the radiator -> this is why the C-One under panel for the ST205 have the slots,

all this mods will raise the air flow through the radiator package

i got many ideas and a bit knowledge from the engineer :D

greetz

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