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PostPosted: Sun Jan 18, 2009 10:24 pm 
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Hmmm, interesting

Mine has a flat top tank which is thinner than those. It's completely flat along the top.

Perhaps it's one of the iterations that Koyo have made along the way

Then again I do have the "race" spec version so perhaps they envisaged swirl pots in the scheme of things. I suspect the core area may be greater too


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 19, 2009 1:40 am 
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Yours is the copper Koyo so maybe its different to the ally one. I, sure youv'e posted pics of it somewhere but I cant remember where :)

Anyway sounds like the ally version is a superior design to the copper one even altho the heat rejection will be better on the copper version :wink:

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 19, 2009 10:35 am 
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Hmm,
This appears to also be an issue with the Golpher radiator for the ST185. The upper rad hose is the highest point not the rad cap. It shodul not make too much difference to me once a swirl pot & header tank is installed assuming it is done correctly :-) The last bit is the real challenge :-)

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 19, 2010 10:43 am 
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I am so glad I started this thread. Due to personal circumstances I have had to put project Arsey on hold for a while, I just haven't had the time. Now I come back to it I have a record of what I have already done and why! It has helped me compile a long list of "To Dos" as well :-(

Anyway - I hope to be providing some updates as I make progress!

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 21, 2010 10:56 pm 
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I'm glad you started this tread too. It gives me a chance to take the mickey that you broke your car 2 YEARS ago and still haven't fixed it :twisted:


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 21, 2010 11:14 pm 
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*bleep* to you too... :-)

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Dec 28, 2010 10:27 pm 
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Location: North Yorkshire
Car Model: ST185 CS/RC
Bout 8 months ago, and .......

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1993 Carlos Sainz 2939, Forged, Apexi RX6B turbo with external wastegate. MOTEC M4, AFPR and 800cc injects. 3" exhaust, +1mm valves.ST205 cams. Rays 8.5" x 17". 205 rear subframe. Bilstein coilovers. 205 brakes.TRD diff


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 29, 2010 1:14 am 
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yes yes yes.....
erghh not much :-( I really need to extract didgit and start on project arsey again. I have made some progress but very little TBH.

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 Post subject: Re: Project Arsey Blog
PostPosted: Wed Dec 16, 2015 11:44 pm 
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So Here we are some 7 years on.......

Due to children, hectic job, house refurb, house move,then starting a business poor Arsey had been sat for far too long with an occasional wash and moss removal.

Work has been started putting some of the planned mods/works into action along with some repairs that were needed and natural deterioration.

Pics & progress will be added in due course...

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 Post subject: Re: Project Arsey Blog
PostPosted: Fri Dec 18, 2015 1:01 am 
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I can now say I believe in miracles having seen the state of the car before work started and the engine now runs :o to say my flabber was gasted would be an understatement

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1994 Toyota Celica GT-Four ST205WRC JDM 269bhp @ 0.9bar
1994 Toyota Celica GT-Four Special GT 590bhp @ 1.8bar
1989 Van Diemen RF88/89 Formula Ford 1600
2008 Nissan Patrol GU 3.0L ZD30DDTi 154bhp


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 Post subject: Re: Project Arsey Blog
PostPosted: Fri Dec 18, 2015 1:25 am 
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Wow,
At this heady pace it will only be another decade before its moved further under its own steam than the DC Removal Co have pushed it :lol:


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 Post subject: Re: Project Arsey Blog
PostPosted: Fri Dec 18, 2015 10:14 am 
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TrackToyFour wrote:
I can now say I believe in miracles having seen the state of the car before work started and the engine now runs :o to say my flabber was gasted would be an understatement


I did have my concerns also. It would have continued to run had the injector resistor pack been plugged in.

two_OH_five wrote:
Wow,
At this heady pace it will only be another decade before its moved further under its own steam than the DC Removal Co have pushed it :lol:


So how are your GT4s Mr Pot?

There has been 2 very good pieces of news this week....
1....
Image

and
2....

after regular soaking in duck oil for the last 8 years the spring platform height adjustment collars on my Tein HAs have nicely freed off sufficient to allow complete dissassembly. I will do a bit of a write up on this as I could do with some input on options. The basic plan is to refurb & replace the excessively hard 10/7KG/mm springs with softer longer travel eibachs and maybe also look at adjustable inserts from Koni or Bilstein. The Tein/BC/XYZ etc all seem to have a very limited life before a rebuild is required and damper technology is very basic so opting for a better quality insert seems more sensible than paying Tein for a short lived rebuild. Most seem to suggest 10K miles before the shock blows. Esentially just using the cases / platforms to build up some bespoke height adjustable coilovers.

This may be done in 2 stages as the dampers still seem to be working with adjustment on rate and are vary from a bit stiffer than stock to very stiff indeed. They don't however return to full extension of their own accord/are incredibly slow to do so. My experience with dampers suggests that they are typically pressurised to return to full height although I don't actually know what difference/why they are meant to do this or if all do.

Ideally I would like to get spring rate & length sorted before getting the inserts matched to the springs/vehicle.

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 Post subject: Re: Project Arsey Blog
PostPosted: Fri Dec 18, 2015 11:41 am 
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Diceman wrote:
The Tein/BC/XYZ etc all seem to have a very limited life before a rebuild is required and damper technology is very basic so opting for a better quality insert seems more sensible than paying Tein for a short lived rebuild. Most seem to suggest 10K miles before the shock blows.


Interesting - never see anything else that suggests BC's need rebuilding every 10K miles - unless it is the 'track only' version with the inverted cartridge (which BC strongly advise against using on the street). Mine have just passed that (including more than 1500 hard track miles over the last 2 years) and still look and perform like new. Tein seem to be more vulnerable to the British weather and can look very tatty after a couple of years though.


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 Post subject: Re: Project Arsey Blog
PostPosted: Fri Dec 18, 2015 11:46 am 
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Diceman wrote:
They don't however return to full extension of their own accord/are incredibly slow to do so. My experience with dampers suggests that they are typically pressurised to return to full height although I don't actually know what difference/why they are meant to do this or if all do.
I'd always assumed that dampers were meant to return to full height of their own accord after being compressed. A recent article in Racecar Engineer implies that this isn't always the case so I need to investigate further. I'd always assumed that the damper was knackered if it didn't return to full height. Maybe it's related to bump and rebound damper characteristics?

BTW I don't think you would go wrong fitting Bilstein inserts as they do have valving specs for the GT-Fours. Koni may have something but I've not heard of them used in GT-Fours.

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1994 Toyota Celica GT-Four ST205WRC JDM 269bhp @ 0.9bar
1994 Toyota Celica GT-Four Special GT 590bhp @ 1.8bar
1989 Van Diemen RF88/89 Formula Ford 1600
2008 Nissan Patrol GU 3.0L ZD30DDTi 154bhp


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 Post subject: Re: Project Arsey Blog
PostPosted: Fri Dec 18, 2015 12:00 pm 
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Davem45r wrote:
Diceman wrote:
The Tein/BC/XYZ etc all seem to have a very limited life before a rebuild is required and damper technology is very basic so opting for a better quality insert seems more sensible than paying Tein for a short lived rebuild. Most seem to suggest 10K miles before the shock blows.


Interesting - never see anything else that suggests BC's need rebuilding every 10K miles - unless it is the 'track only' version with the inverted cartridge (which BC strongly advise against using on the street). Mine have just passed that (including more than 1500 hard track miles over the last 2 years) and still look and perform like new. Tein seem to be more vulnerable to the British weather and can look very tatty after a couple of years though.


Good to hear. I guess an internet search will only ever reveal people who have had issues or people who have gone from knackered standard suspension to new coilovers and wax lyrical about how good their new suspension is.

The cost of inserts & springs (koni or bilstein & Eibach) is akin to purchasing new BCs (circa £600-£700) but with easier rebuildability and changes of settings with off the shelf springs &/or bilstein offer cheap rebuilds with bespoke valving (circa £60 rebuild per damper seems to be reported). Anything I have read suggests that Koni/Bilstein is a step up in ride quality and performance than the japanese market equipment. I do wonder if Tein has lowered the build quality to match the price point of the newer cheap alternatives, my old spec Tein HA seem to have survived moderately well despite being very old.

I am very open to alternative suggestions....

The vehicle will essentially be a fast road vehicle with maybe an occasional track outing. I am old so crashy suspension need not apply. Having previously had TRD adjustables and springs on my ST205 and Koni inserts/Eibach springs on my old ST185 these were a good compromise and a little more compliant than the Tein Superstreet which is more compliant again than the Tein HA I currently have. I ideally would like something that is a halfway house between the TRD adjustables (non-coilover) and the Tein Superstreet for ride quality. Maybe swapping the Tein helper spring for an eibach progressive tender spring may assist in a little more compliance along with lowering of the main spring rate......

I've started a number of calc sheets for spring selection so will be posting up for peoples thoughts. This is the first time I have entered into any detailed suspension calculations so any comments are welcome. The aim is for a little drop (but not much to keep roll centre and bump steer under control) and use as much travel as possible. In most peoples sense it will be quite high!

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Multicolour yawn Honda VFR400
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