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PostPosted: Fri Jul 13, 2007 2:17 am 
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Junior WRC

Joined: Tue May 23, 2006 8:06 pm
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Location: Knoxville, TN USA
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Alright. So I thought about everything I changed. I also plugged the egr wire back into the ecu.
So I unplugged the egr wire and the code changed.

Now when I go into diagnostics mode, the light constantly flashes rapidly. It never stops. So I decided to let it warm up then do a test drive. It got to 16hg on vac while idling.

When I drove it, at first it hardly pulled at all.
If any at all. After driving it around ~7 minutes it started pulling boost again over 10psi.
So I parked it and now the vac is at 19hg.
So it does drive better for a bit, but I obviously have some more issues to sort out.

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 18, 2007 6:43 pm 
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Junior WRC

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Location: Knoxville, TN USA
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I am going to try and use throttle body cleaner or something to spray over the vac hoses to see if there are any leaks still.

If ther eare not any leaks, I am not sure where to go from there. I guess I will cross that bridge when I get there.

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 27, 2007 1:08 am 
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Junior WRC

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Location: Knoxville, TN USA
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Took my car to a friend's house to use the tb cleaner method for finding vac leaks.

Could not find anything except for a torn cap on a port for the charcoal canister.

I replaced that torn cap. It made a world of difference. Car pulled a lot harder and didn't have hardly any adverse reactions to the high boost.

My vac stayed the same, and my idle still dipped a little. I think I am one step closer.

I think I still have some slight vac issues, but the car is very driveable right now. Who would of think something so damn tiny could cause so much issue under boost.

I have a few other items I am investigating, but the engine is nearly done. I would say now %99.

Then we go to the paint shop.

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Coldiron (Cold - Iron)
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 27, 2007 12:44 pm 
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Location: Sunny Fareham, UK
Car Model: ST205
Torn cap? How do you mean?

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95 ST205 - slept for 10 years, now waking up...
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 27, 2007 2:20 pm 
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Junior WRC

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Location: Knoxville, TN USA
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I had capped off one of the metal charcoal can. ports on the throttle body with rubber caps. One was old and was falling apart. It was sucking lots of air in under boost.

I think once I find the last ofthe loose hoses, I am set.

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PostPosted: Sat Aug 04, 2007 8:56 pm 
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Location: Knoxville, TN USA
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So I futzed around on hoses today. I traced the hose off the back of my manifold and found it goes to a hardline that goes to my powersteering. Those hoses were loose and frayed. I cut them and put tighter clamps on. It did help fix part of the problem. I also installed a better hose on my MAP sensor with clamps. The car is running nice. It is almost there. I think I am going to have to replace those powersteering hoses. They are too loose and worn.

I am also going to replace two lines on my intake that use rad hose instead of vac hose. I tink this will help my vacas well.

My idle stip dips, but the car runs stong. I am almost there.

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PostPosted: Sat Aug 25, 2007 6:03 am 
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Junior WRC

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Location: Knoxville, TN USA
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I am sorting out my vac issue on the powersteering pump.

There is a upper and lower metal pipe behind the intake manifold and a upper and lower port on the PS air valve.

Does the upper vac hardline connect to the upper port, or does it alternate?

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PostPosted: Sat Aug 25, 2007 9:27 am 
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I don't think it really matters which way around the hoses connect.

The purpose of this is to raise the idle rpm by a little to compensate for the extra load on the engine from the power steering pump as you turn the steering :)

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95 ST205 - slept for 10 years, now waking up...
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http://www.gtfours.co.uk
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Turbocharging - the replacement for displacement


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 27, 2007 3:11 am 
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Junior WRC

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Location: Knoxville, TN USA
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So, I fixed that vac leak. Car runs a lot better. I still get a slight idle dip and my vac is still 19hg. The car runs great though. I would say the vac situation is 99.5% done. Good enough to drive and good enough to begin the restoration project.

I turned the teins down a bit just to make the car more streetable. The manual recomends 8 clicks in front and 10 in rear.

The frist vid is 6 in front and 8 n rear, second vid is 8 all around.

Turn your volume up for the whole experience.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dZftBYNNlX0

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zEP1tk73Bbo

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PostPosted: Thu Aug 30, 2007 6:24 pm 
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Location: Knoxville, TN USA
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Are 205 axels and 185 axels the same length?

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PostPosted: Thu Aug 30, 2007 6:29 pm 
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Quote:
Are 205 axels and 185 axels the same length?

You mean driveshafts?

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Kris
95 ST205 - slept for 10 years, now waking up...
Avensis
http://www.gtfours.co.uk
_______________________________________
Turbocharging - the replacement for displacement


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 30, 2007 6:50 pm 
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Location: Knoxville, TN USA
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Yes, left and right. We call them axels on this side of the pond.

I have a clicking from one, and I know of some going cheap.

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PostPosted: Thu Aug 30, 2007 8:59 pm 
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The gearboxes are interchangeable so presume the "axles" are the same length.

Would it not be better to replace the CV joint rather than the whole driveshaft?

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95 ST205 - slept for 10 years, now waking up...
Avensis
http://www.gtfours.co.uk
_______________________________________
Turbocharging - the replacement for displacement


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 30, 2007 9:06 pm 
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Junior WRC

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Posts: 595
Location: Knoxville, TN USA
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Here is costs more for the CV joints then a driveshaft.

New driveshaft is ~250usd. CV joint kit ~350usd.

I can get 2 low milage 205 axels 75usd shipped.

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1992 Celica Gt4 RC Conv. St205 swap
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 30, 2007 10:29 pm 
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Junior WRC

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Location: Knoxville, TN USA
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I was mostly concerned if the superstrut hub caused issues.

Now I am on the hunt for a st205 intercooler sticker.

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