Hey chaps,

Been a long time since i've been on here! I hope all are well

I've searched the forum but im coming up a blank on this one so i hope someone out there will be able to point me in the right direction.

I've just fitted a HKS EVC EZ to my ST205 and i seem to be getting a massive boost creep when i first slam on the throttle but if i slowly bring the boost up its fine.

When the unit is switched off all is normal. It boosts exactly the same as if the controller wasnt even there. 1bar is what i always see on my boost gauge.

When the unit is powered on i've slowly brought the boost up (in 3rd/4th as i still have the VSV enabled as im not bothered about anything more than stock boost in 1st and 2nd) to see where it goes, then i ease off, adjust the gain up, slowly bring the boost on and repeat the process until im seeing approx 1.1 bar.

For those who also have the same boost controller, my gain dial is at roughly 1 O'Clock to get 1.1bar.

Anyway, if i stamp on the gas it doesnt go to 1.1bar....Oh no no no no no!

The gauge shoots up towards the stars and i've seen it jump up to as high as 1.5 bar on the gauge!!!! Melted piston territory indeed!

I cant quite understand this...

The funny thing is i never hit fuel cut.... but i have no idea if i have a FCD fitted or not... i havent had a chance to look at the ecu yet.

Fitting wise i removed the small pipe between the turbo housing and the actuator, then ran a pipe from the turbo housing to the HKS solonoid and a pipe from the actuator to the HKS solonoid. Then there is another pipe between the solonoid and the inlet vac pipes (i've tapped this into a t piece next to the t-piece for the boost gauge).

This is exactly as per the HKS manual i downloaded.

I saw a video on youtube of a guy explaining fitment of a bleed valve to his 185 where he blocked off the second pipe coming off his actuator. Do i need to do this too?

I thought perhaps the solonoid was too far away from the turbo (mounted on the firewall) so i moved it to just in front of the battery but the shorter pipework hasnt made any difference.

Car is in good health. BPU, decat, 2.5" straight through and plenty of cooling.

Help!

First of all - you need to disable the Turbo VSV. The way this works is to give you extra boost in 3rd, 4th and 5th.

By disabling the VSV your 1st and 2nd gear boost will be unchanged and you then have less boost in the upper gears.

You then increase the pressure in all the gears by adding the controller.

It will certainly be no worse with the VSV disabled.

Also I had a fairly poor experience of the HKS EVC 5 that used to be fitted to my car, getting consistant boost out if it was a pain with sometimes similar symptoms to your description. I gave up in the end - sold it and bought the Apexi AVC-r, an excellent boost controller.

Your reference to the 2nd pipe coming off the actuator - that is the pipe going to the VSV and yes IMO you do need to block it off.

Good Luck.

_________________
GT4DC Events Co-ordinator
1996 ST205 UK

Cool stuff. Cheers for the info.

Is it enough to just pop a bolt in the end of this 2nd pipe coming off the back of the actuator or will that trigger an engine light?

Just found a thread on here where someone is having the exact same issue as me.

http://gt4dc.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php? ... hlight=vsv

Cheers

A bolt in the pipe is enough - make sure its in tight and fastened with a clip.

_________________
GT4DC Events Co-ordinator
1996 ST205 UK