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Sirius
PostPosted: Fri Feb 08, 2013 11:22 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jul 13, 2005 12:14 am
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Location: Camberley, Surrey
Car Model: ST205
Hi Folks,

Jeff is having a few problems with his CS - here are the details:

Quote:
Hy guys and sorry to bother you again
I have problems with the CS still
You may have read that I had a broken cold start sensor and possibly a dodgy water temp sensor so I have replacd both of these
I also found a grey 2 wire (brown/black yellow/black) plug connector just behind the air filter which was dissconnected??? It goes to earth on the suspension turret just below the air filter so I reconnected it. How long this had been off, I do not know (It may just have happened)
Now the sucker wil not run!!!

When (without dissarming the alarm) I put ignition to acc. all dash lights are on and burning bright including the EML, so I ckecked for codes and have none.
When I dissarm the system, all dash lights stay on BUT the EML just flickers erratically and there is a light 'crackling' noise, in time with the flickering, coming from below the inlet manifold area...???!!!
She does start occasionally but fades and dies within a few seconds

Couple of other weird things.... when trying to start, the flashers sometimes come on (she has a Toad Ai606 system fitted.) Also the turbo timer (which I leave switched off) suddenly came back on???

Any clues gratefully received
Ta.


Jeff hope you don't mind me posting this. :)

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Sirius
PostPosted: Fri Feb 08, 2013 11:26 pm 
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Location: Camberley, Surrey
Car Model: ST205
What happens if you unplug the connection behind the airbox again? Does it run as before?

The little connector you are talking about - is that part of the AFM? Does the ST185 have an intake temperature sensor like the ST205?

My feeling is that it might be the igniter although the crackling noise is wierd.

I'm sure someone more knowledgeable will be along shortly to help.

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Nibbles
PostPosted: Sat Feb 09, 2013 12:28 am 
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Location: Bournemouth
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Intake temp is built into the AFM on a 185. Mine doesn't have a grey plug that I can see. Might be related to the charcoal canister or EGR.

Crackling noise is probably solenoids or injectors clicking in & out.

If it ran without the grey plug in, I would try taking it out and try again.

Can you post a picture of the grey plug and he item it plugs into, maybe we can identify it.

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two_OH_five
PostPosted: Sat Feb 09, 2013 1:36 am 
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Joined: Thu Jul 14, 2005 12:44 pm
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Location: drinking devil fuel
Car Model: ST205
A few things that strike me

If you switch the ignition to acc the dash lights should not come on. That should only power the accessories. Dash/ecu should power up when switched to ign
Plug under the air box - on a 205 I'd think fuel pump resistor although that's more on the n/s turret than under the gearbox. There's also a plethora of water temp switches and iirc the reverse light switch
Crackling could be injectors or just possibly the earth connections onto the bottom of the manifold
Starting but dying a few seconds later is something I would normally associate with a problem with the fuel pimp resisistor not being connected

It has some of the classic signs of an alarm gone bad but not all. I'm a bit stumped. Really need clarification on the ignition switch position as that is potentially quite telling
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jeff
PostPosted: Sat Feb 09, 2013 9:57 am 
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Joined: Sat Jul 16, 2011 8:13 am
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Location: North East (Cullercoats)
Car Model: ST185 CS/RC
Hi folks and thanks sirius, no problem.
First I can clarify my mistake on ignition switch position :)... all light up when switched to ign with the alarm in 'passive alarm' mode.
When I disarm it, that is when the EML stars flickering erratically combined with 'crackling' in time with its flickers !!! I am attempting to locate the sound accurately but so far can only say it is down below the throttle somewhere.
Thanks guys.

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Nibbles
PostPosted: Sat Feb 09, 2013 10:44 am 
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185 resistor packs are both under the battery. Start and die a few seconds later on a 185 can be afm related as it ignores it for startup fueling.

tvis and tvsv solenoids are both under inlet manifoe.

just noticed wire colours on plug, I'll have a look later.

does sound like alarm or switch gone bad to me.

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Nibbles
PostPosted: Sat Feb 09, 2013 12:48 pm 
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Couldn't find those wire colours anywhere on the ECU or air con circuits.

Does this give a clue ?

Image

Image

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two_OH_five
PostPosted: Sat Feb 09, 2013 3:07 pm 
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Location: drinking devil fuel
Car Model: ST205
I also failed to find the colours but I only have the bogo 185ewdthatyou posted the other day. Since Jeff's is a CS it may be specific to that
Looking at the ewd black/yellow seems to be a common switched 12v line but it might be something connected to the alarm
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jeff
PostPosted: Sat Feb 09, 2013 6:04 pm 
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Location: North East (Cullercoats)
Car Model: ST185 CS/RC
Eek and thanks guys.... I cannot zoom in enough to identfy the conector but believe it is not the problem....
Sad to say that today I cranked her up and after she reached operating temp she ticked over ok BUT I had to restart her 6 or 7 times as she 'cut out' during tickover and even when I blipped the throttle she still failed and was pushing a lot of water vapour out???
I dare not take her out on the road.....
Cheers for any input :)

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sketchmyster
PostPosted: Sat Feb 09, 2013 6:32 pm 
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sounds like what happend to mine take ur afm off and clean it mine was sticking causing the exact same problems (got a st185)

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two_OH_five
PostPosted: Sat Feb 09, 2013 6:46 pm 
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Location: drinking devil fuel
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What changed between
"She does start occasionally but fades and dies within a few seconds"
and
"she reached operating temp she ticked over ok BUT I had to restart her 6 or 7 times"
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jeff
PostPosted: Sat Feb 09, 2013 6:52 pm 
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Location: North East (Cullercoats)
Car Model: ST185 CS/RC
the afm being the bit attatched to the air filter....?t
I'm not stupid... just ignorant :)

ref starting and running... I spent 1/2hr firing her up a half dozen times and from cold she was a *bleep*... as in she would run for a few seconds and then 'faded'... I could catch her on throttle but then she faded again!!! Gave her revs to 2k and she seemed ok and as the temp went up she setled at tickover when warm ???
Sorry that I cannot be more specific but the *bleep* is doing my head in :(
Thanks again for all your input!!

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Now...a 13/60 cv herald :( ,a Honda CR-Z and an Amica
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jeff
PostPosted: Sat Feb 09, 2013 7:17 pm 
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Location: North East (Cullercoats)
Car Model: ST185 CS/RC
The connector, which was disconnected after I removed the air filter but I may have just done it?? is in the middle of the picture. It goes to earth on the turret via a 3/4" cube black box???? !
Attachments
... Is the picture here?
If not try http://www.gt4oc.net/forums/viewtopic.p ... 0#p1381390
sorry guys :(

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supersan23
PostPosted: Sat Feb 09, 2013 7:27 pm 
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Here is the picture that jeff uploaded of his little grey plug

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Nibbles
PostPosted: Sat Feb 09, 2013 7:49 pm 
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I have a plug like that on mine with black wires going to it and it's a suppressor capacitor. Not sure what it supresses, but I doubt it makes much odds.

Lets go another way about. Describe how it went from 'I love my CS, it starts with no trouble and runs like a dream' to 'it hardly starts, and keeps cutting out'. Was it a gradual decline or sudden ? was any work done on the car ? was the car left stood for ages then wouldn't start ?

I'm thinking sticking AFM flap, or split in intake pipe (quite common to split along a corrugation & hard to spot)

Also worth checking the rotor arm hasn't come unscrewed.

Still wouldn't explain the flickering engine light though.

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