So February 2012 was a busy month. 121 images strong so lets get into it.
Talking with my friend Leigh and his father Tom some years back, the plan was to change the fuel and brake hardlines for copper nickel pipe.
Also known cupronickel pipe or bundy tube, the pipe comes in rolls and can be bend into various shapes to replace factory hardlines as long as you use the right fittings.
I decided to re-route the brake hardlines which go to the bias valve to clean up the aesthetics of the firewall as it looked a bit cluttered. hindsight says I shouldn't have bothered as you generally can't see lines behind the engine and manifold. Oh well...
Cool thing about copper nickel is that even if it is bent, you can generally bend it back into a straight and start again, as long as it isn't bent heavily on a 90 degree angle. Straightening a 90 is not easy to achieve.
Requirements are the correct size pipe, tube cutter and flaring tool.
Cut pipe by rotating cutter around the pipe, scoring the pipe on a couple of rotations, then tighten, then rotate a couple of times again. Repeat until pipe is cut.
Using a flaring tool, flare the end of the pipe (normally a double flare for a better fit and that is the factory spec). Fitting is placed on the pipe before flaring.
And then you have a nicely flared pipe with the fitting.
A hand held bender is normally used, and this one uses a wheel with different sized grooves for the different sized pipes. There are other pipe benders, but this ampro model seemed reasonably compact. You can also bend by hand.
Straightening out the pipe as best as possible, I put fitting on, flared the pipe and gave it a slight bend.
And slowly but surely bend a little, bend a little more, figure out the angle, bend some more. Diagram helps to figure out what goes where.
Note, I used the factory pipe brackets.
And slowly getting there.
Open head spanner is best for tightening up and unscrewing the fittings. It is quite a mission to straighted a pipe that comes in a coil. Length is determined by using a tape measure and tracing out the path of the pipe. If the pipe length is short, you can use a joiner or start again. I commonly started again and reused the old pipe for smaller length pieces.
And lines to the bias valve complete.
And they fit with the factory brackets.
If you want to fit a brake booster bracket, you have to change or bend this pipe to the side. Challenge is to make sure there is no interference with the cam cover as the distance between the booster and cover is around 20-30mm? (can't remember exactly) There is a very narror space is what I can remember.
And something new to allow a brake booster bracket to fit.
When I was removing things out of the engine bay, I was very rough and bent the fuel and rear brake lines to get them out of the way when I was cleaning up the seam sealer. I didn't realise that once the steel lines are bent, they don't bend back easily. I also didn't realise there was another bracket on the underside of the car. Way to make more work for myself. Will get back to it in a moment.
Just some general photos. Engine with caldina intake and CT26R2 (CT20B)
Replaced rocker cover gasket ensuring to use goo in the corners as per BGB
Comparison between st205 and 215 throttle bodys. This is why you can't just swap the TB position sensor over. Different mounting and locater dowel.
ST215 TPS on left, ST205 on the right.
ST215 TPS is 3 pin, ST205 TPS is 4 pin.
ST215 TB on left, ST205 TB on right. Rear of TBs shown
ST215 TB on left, ST205 TB on right. Front of TBs shown
While I was disassembling the engine ancillaries, I bent the pipe from the water pipes to oil cooler. Thanks Hose from Hell.
I got a hardline pipe from a ST202 as a replacement but found that this pipe facing upwards interfered with the sensors on the water junction.
Many pipes make light work. Got a replacement pipe and it came with a Gen3 3sgte block.
Unfortunately my replacement pipe was rather pitted as they must have removed the pipe with a screwdriver and damaged the flange. They had a lot of goo between flange and water pump outlet to ensure no leaks.
Changed the gasket on the oil cooler (warmer..)
New HTH's installed. I polished the pipe a little as well.
Broke one of the bolts on the oil cooler mounting flange. Too much torque with a 3/8, so tightened by hand. Later I bought a 1/4 drive torque wrench for these low torque jobs.
Made a rolling frame for my engine and gearbox. Designed the frame so the engine sits just above the legs of the engine crane to allow the crane legs to be moved around easier as I'm pushing around the engine.
New spark plugs. Did I mention I found an old spark plug below the brake booster? Must have been an old one which got left in the engine bay as they prob couldn't reach it.
New thermostat
Had to reuse the gasket. No significant wear or tear, so just cleaned it up and reinstalled.
Engine brackets, 2x st202, 1x st205. Smaller brackets make things tidier in the engine bay. Will use them to install engine into car, then remove them once engine is in the car.
The mighty crank pulley holder. Holder is bolted on to the pulley and then the crank pulley tightened through the hole while holding pulley in place. Built the tool to also do Subaru EJ crank pulleys as I had to change the cambelt on the Forester.
Sandwich plate for an oil cooler. Changed this to a better design (you will see later). These plates still require thermostats as they commonly don't have thermostatic control built in.
That will do for now and only gets me to the 4th of Feb..
_________________
GT Four
Adovansu
"I want to enjoy the powerful and nimble agility behavior."