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 Post subject: Rust proofing
PostPosted: Thu Jan 17, 2019 2:22 am 
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Joined: Mon Feb 03, 2014 8:01 pm
Posts: 12
Car Model: None
I was wondering if any of you have rust proofed the underside of your car. I have been doing a job on my car recently and when I was under it the other day I thought it might be a good idea to do something to try and preserve it better, my car seems pretty tidy underneath apart from the sub frames which seem to be covered in surface rust. Is this something you would tackle your self, i don't have access to a ramp so can only get the car up as high as the axle stands go.
Would you tackle this job yourself or farm it out, or if you have done it yourself did you brush it on or spray it and what did you use.

Many thanks


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 Post subject: Re: Rust proofing
PostPosted: Sun Feb 03, 2019 1:12 pm 
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Joined: Sun Apr 29, 2012 4:23 pm
Posts: 85
Car Model: None
When it comes to the ST205 I think cavity waxing is the most important preventative measure you can do. It's a summer job really as it needs to be warm so it creeps/flows into the seams properly. Key areas:

- Rear arches, especially the rear lower parts (accessible behind boot trim panels) & front parts (behind rear speaker trim)
- sills - remove the drain plugs from below
- doors along the bottom seam.
- any box sections accessible through those rubber hole plugs from underneath. Can't member exactly where they are - my past memories of doing this on several cars have mushed together -but I think in front of the rear subframe.

In addition to cavity wax:
If you have sill covers/rear spats, remove them & refit as they often hide rust/are the cause of rust as grit gets stuck between them & the body & compromises the paint, then rusts away in secret.
Remove the black plastic paint protector parts behind the rear wheels too; get all the stones out & touch up any chips.
Other areas to touch up - along bottom edge of doors

Clean out all the rain gutters & sunroof if you have one.

Remove all plastic wheel liners & clean out behind- IIRc the rear ones are different either side, & the front ones obviously. Clean all round the rear arch lip too.

Ideal world - Remove the front windscreen outer trim strip, clean it all out, touch up & replace with OEM. You can fix this bakc in place yourself with some urethane sealant.

With regards to surface rust on the subframes, I think this is less important to preserving the life of the car as they are fairly substantial. Having said that, angle grinder + wire wheel, followed by something like POR15 or Epoxy Mastic 121 will certainly prolong them - again a summer job really as they won't cure properly in these temperatures. Could always remove & send to a blasters, but then you will be replacing bushes etc & it will end up costing £££.


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 Post subject: Re: Rust proofing
PostPosted: Mon Feb 04, 2019 10:44 pm 
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Joined: Mon Feb 03, 2014 8:01 pm
Posts: 12
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Thanks for the in depth reply I will save that job for the summer, I have had the car for approx 5 years and I am only the second owner and it has sat outside all the time I have owned it until recently, I have had a little bit of remedial bodywork done recently I would like to pro long the life of it as it puts a smile on my face every time I drive it, and in my car owning life up until now I have had quite a few quicker and better handling cars this the only one I have ever fancied hanging on to.
I am really surprised a 23 year old car has held together so well and will put quite a few modern cars to shame. They did really build them quite well.


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 Post subject: Re: Rust proofing
PostPosted: Sat Feb 09, 2019 11:43 pm 
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Joined: Sat Sep 02, 2006 3:13 pm
Posts: 3609
Location: Bournemouth
Car Model: None
As above.
In my experience of these cars, most of the serious rust has come through from the inside. Sills seem to be the first to go. The exception being inner sills right at the back which seem to rust from the outside as well.

If undersealing, be very careful not to seal in rust, from my experience this just seems to make it rust through quicker. Always remove rust first and then undercoat with suitable rust killing layers before going for underseal at the end.

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