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 Post subject: Fig8 Seized?
PostPosted: Mon Jun 10, 2019 8:51 am 
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Morning all....... I've been working on a front-suspension clunk on my st205. Replaced both ARB drop-links at the weekend, which didn't fix it (but they definitely needed replacing, so no harm done :D ).

As I was jacking the front back up again, my mate was lying down watching to see if anything moved, and spotted that the strut-end of the fig-8 was moving with an associated clunk as I jacked it up.

So, I set about pulling the fig-8, and found that the "male end" of the joint that fits onto the strut was completely seized solid, with no articulation at all - can I get a quick sanity-check? That IS a normal ball-joint on that end of the fig-8, correct?

I checked back through my records, and the car's done ~45k miles since that fig-8 was last replaced, which sounds a bit soon for it to fail - I thought the life expectancy was over 60k? Could the fact that it's not done many miles over the last couple of years (it's sat on the driveway in "semi-retirement") have contributed to it seizing? I'm thinking I need to give the old girl a bit more exercise :wink:

Cheers

Dunk


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 Post subject: Re: Fig8 Seized?
PostPosted: Mon Jun 10, 2019 9:22 am 
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Clubman

Joined: Sat Apr 29, 2017 8:54 am
Posts: 105
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Hi.
Yes and no!
it is a ball joint but it should be ridgid and not flap around or pull forward or backward.
If it's moving its shot at
I had the same issue with mine last month, clunk on braking and taking up drive so probably needs a new one Tcb is your best bet.
Regards Baz


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 Post subject: Re: Fig8 Seized?
PostPosted: Mon Jun 10, 2019 10:32 am 
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Thanks Baz - yep, ordered up a new one from TCB this morning 8)


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 Post subject: Re: Fig8 Seized?
PostPosted: Mon Jun 10, 2019 4:07 pm 
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Clubman

Joined: Sat Apr 29, 2017 8:54 am
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Hi mate your welcome
That should cure your issues
Regards


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 Post subject: Re: Fig8 Seized?
PostPosted: Mon Jun 10, 2019 7:24 pm 
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Joined: Sat Sep 02, 2006 3:13 pm
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Location: Bournemouth
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It should rotate only. Same applies for the joint it fits onto on the lower arm.

When assembled, the bottom of the strut should't move forward/back or in/out or rotate. There is a ball joint from here to the hub to allow it to turn.

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 Post subject: Re: Fig8 Seized?
PostPosted: Tue Jun 11, 2019 7:21 am 
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There's no movement in the ball joint at all - I've had it clamped in the vice, but it's solid...... feels like it's just 1 piece of cast steel.

It'll be interesting to compare against the new one when it arrives later today 8)

Dunk


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 Post subject: Re: Fig8 Seized?
PostPosted: Tue Jun 11, 2019 6:12 pm 
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OK, so.... the new fig8 arrived today - visually and in terms of joint articulation there wasn't really any difference to the old one.

HOWEVER, previously, jacking up and lowering the car caused clunks and creaks which the new fig8 cured (yay!)...... BUT, on taking it for a test drive, there's still an occasional creaking/graunching noise, so I'm starting to think the lower arm needs replacing as well (ker-ching! :shock: )

When I took the old fig8 off, the lower arm was quite sloppy: with the remaining inner and outer joints still connected, I could rotate the lower arm by about 45degrees - is that normal, or "sub optimal"? Just want to be sure I'm not shelling out another £300 to TCB only to find it doesn't give me quiet suspension!! :roll:

Cheers

Dunk


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 Post subject: Re: Fig8 Seized?
PostPosted: Tue Jun 11, 2019 7:25 pm 
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Joined: Sat Apr 29, 2017 8:54 am
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Hi mate
no should not be sloppy should be plenty of resistance if it's slopping about then it's time to replace it.
If it's any consulation the ride and handling will be a hell of a lot better once done


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 Post subject: Re: Fig8 Seized?
PostPosted: Tue Jun 11, 2019 7:44 pm 
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Thanks for the confirmation Bazross...... looks like my wallet will be a bit lighter tomorrow, but needs must :roll:


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 Post subject: Re: Fig8 Seized?
PostPosted: Tue Jun 11, 2019 7:52 pm 
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As above, the joint connecting to the fig 8 - like the fig 8 - should rotate only. They are not ball joints. Being easy to turn isn't a problem provided there is no play in any other directions, although it does indicate it's not new.

The most common cause of clunking on 205 front is the joint from the tie bar (aka banana arm) to the chassis. A search for 'crush tube' should show up loads of discussion. To diagnose, park the car on flat level ground with steering straight, handbrake on and in neutral. Try rolling the front wheel backwards & forwards by pushing the top of the tyre. If the wheel moves backwards & forwards then the crush tube has failed.

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 Post subject: Re: Fig8 Seized?
PostPosted: Thu Jun 13, 2019 5:09 pm 
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Location: Russia, Izhevsk
Car Model: ST205
What are complex diagnostic methods. :)
Although if you have never done something like that then of course it is true.

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 Post subject: Re: Fig8 Seized?
PostPosted: Wed Jun 19, 2019 11:21 am 
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Well, after spending 3 hours of blood, sweat & bad language (and a 10-tonne hydraulic puller!) I got the old lower control arm off - with a bang, and comparing the joints on both ends to the new replacement arm, it was VERY obvious that it'd seen better days!

Bolted up the new arm and torqued everything accordingly, and not a creak, or a clunk can be heard - whoop whoop! 8)

Now onto the next job - anyone know anything about JDM climate control? (that'll be another thread)

Cheers

Dunk


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 Post subject: Re: Fig8 Seized?
PostPosted: Wed Jun 19, 2019 7:11 pm 
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Joined: Sat Apr 29, 2017 8:54 am
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What is it u want to know mate


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 Post subject: Re: Fig8 Seized?
PostPosted: Thu Jun 20, 2019 9:50 pm 
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If the problem is that it goes straight between freezing and boiling with a tiny movement on the heat control, the problem is unplugged / faulty air temperature sensor. It's located on the left of the panel under the steering.

I suffered this for years with no one knowing the fault but a few saying they had the same. A daft bit of design by Toyota - if I'd designed it a failed air sensor would revert back to open loop like the UK models.

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 Post subject: Re: Fig8 Seized?
PostPosted: Fri Jun 21, 2019 7:37 am 
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Nibbles wrote:
If the problem is that it goes straight between freezing and boiling with a tiny movement on the heat control, the problem is unplugged / faulty air temperature sensor.


Thanks Nibbles - I did read your thread when I was searching the archives 8)

Sadly I have a different symptom....... the aircon functionality works fine, pushing out chilled air, but only for a few minutes before it then reverts to just pushing out ambient air (it also loses that smell of aircon-chilled air).

I was initially thinking it might be the magnetic clutch on the pump, but I've replaced the pump (with a "used, but working" pump from ebay), but it's made no difference - I'm now moving back through the system and I'm planning to replace the pump/mag-clutch relay next.

The problem seemed to start a couple of years ago when the main rad burst, and spewed hot coolant all over the engine bay :evil: , so I've been focused on components in there rather than in the passenger compartment..... but that could just be a coincidence!

My worst fear is that it might turn out to be the climate control "brain"...... I'm wondering if there's any way I can override the climate control and force it to only pump chilled air, for testing?

My car's black, so even a slightly warm day gets a bit sticky when driving :shock:

Cheers

Dunk


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