The hub is similar-ish in respect to the driveshaft entry and securing, just like the 165 and 185 and most other cars

CV joints for the 185 in this country are ~£50 each (I think!), they are available from a range of places, but maybe the cheapest is from Trev at www.tcbparts.co.uk

I would be prepared to source the parts and post to you if you wanted to go that route...you just have to pay!


The sticker is available from Toyota for ~£5 - not a typo, an amazing price for once!

_________________
Kris
95 ST205 - slept for 10 years, now waking up...
Avensis
http://www.gtfours.co.uk
_______________________________________
Turbocharging - the replacement for displacement

Do you have a part number for the sticker? It does not show up in the US epc, so the only way for them to order 205 parts for me is giving them a part number and hoping some system pics it up. Most of the time the part numbers show up with no info on their system, so they order blindly.

The sticker is metal liek the 185cs, right?

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Coldiron (Cold - Iron)
1992 Celica Gt4 RC Conv. St205 swap

http://www.noritoy.com

I am just curious. What is the vac on the average st205? Mine vac is 19hg. I am not using the power steering idle vsv, charcoal canister or factory airbox.

Also, what kind of fuel economy does a st205 get? I have an extra high gear ratio, but it seems like I can get ~50 miles per 1/4 tank. I am wondering if my upgraded fuel pump is causing me to use more fuel. The car seems to run extr rich.

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Coldiron (Cold - Iron)
1992 Celica Gt4 RC Conv. St205 swap

http://www.noritoy.com

Sounds like a serious case of over-fueling if you're getting fuel consumption as bad as that. With my stock ST205/Denso ECU I get about 27-28mpg on average. With my modded ST205 I used to get 22-24mpg before I change to closed loop on the MoTeC. This is for normal highway driving. I reserve my flat out driving for the track

Do you have an AFR gauge and wideband lambda to see what's going on?

_________________
Don
GT4DC Chairman
1994 Toyota Celica GT-Four ST205WRC JDM 269bhp @ 0.9bar
1994 Toyota Celica GT-Four Special GT 590bhp @ 1.8bar
1989 Van Diemen RF88/89 Formula Ford 1600
2008 Nissan Patrol GU 3.0L ZD30DDTi 154bhp

No I don't. I might be able to barrow a wideband. What should i be looking for if I get a wideband? My downpipe has a bung for the probe.

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Coldiron (Cold - Iron)
1992 Celica Gt4 RC Conv. St205 swap

http://www.noritoy.com

circa 14.7:1 on cruise is the main giveaway.
Most cars at full chat seem to run 10:1 or richer but should be leaner at 11.5:1 - 11.8:1 at upto circa 1.2 bar. Over that I would want it a little richer if cooling is marginal.

_________________
JP
GT4DC Treasurer

Grey St185 RC
Silver BMW E46 M3
Multicolour yawn Honda VFR400
Silver Honda Civic Type-R

Thanks.

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Coldiron (Cold - Iron)
1992 Celica Gt4 RC Conv. St205 swap

http://www.noritoy.com

Rather than starting a new thread, I figured I would just continue this thread.

I sent the car off to the body shop last Saturday so I should have fresh paint soon.

It runs great. Here is a short video of the last test run. Its hard to tell but at one point I was going ~128 kph.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lv1rjvHfrOI

The only issue I have now, is while sitting at idle it sometimes idles ~800 rpm and the car will shake. Its not like the car is going to die, but I know it isn't right. It is enough to shake the hood of the car.
The car will correct it by raising the idle to ~1100 then it is smooth again.

I am trying to do the research now so when I get the car back I can tear into it and take care of the issue.

Any suggestions of what I should check? I looked in the bgb but the 205 BGB does not have the same diagnoses type pages for these types of things like the 185 bgb did .

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Coldiron (Cold - Iron)
1992 Celica Gt4 RC Conv. St205 swap

http://www.noritoy.com

sorry mate didn't read the whole thread, but my car used to do this for a long time and then it would get better and then come back - found it was an airlock at the throttle body where the little pipe for coolent goes for keeping the throttle body warm - jut loosen of the little hose clamp and you wil hear the air escape,

any way that was my experience

So I had been talking to other 205 to 185 swappers. Turns out when you block off the power steering vsv it can cause a dip in idle. I am not sure to what extent. I got a wideband and the car seems to idle in the 13s. When it bogs after letting off the gas it goes down to 12s before correcting itself. I am not on a mission to determine if my car is running to rich, and why.

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Coldiron (Cold - Iron)
1992 Celica Gt4 RC Conv. St205 swap

http://www.noritoy.com

I guess that leaves ne question
Is it dling there because it wants to or because it knows no better?

You need a DVM to check the OX port in the diagnostic connector
At warm idle it should be swinging about. If it reads 0 the o2 sensor has a problem and the ecu will think it's running lean and will be trying to add fuel. This sounds likely

If that is the case, I might throw the oem o2 back in and see what happens. This is using a generic Bosch sensor. I am also going to look the car over for any vac leaks. I had a split cap on a port when I got the car back.

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Coldiron (Cold - Iron)
1992 Celica Gt4 RC Conv. St205 swap

http://www.noritoy.com

So I swapped back to the oem O2. It idles at 14.1 vs the 13.1 caused by the bosch aftermarket O2 sensor.

Since the AC is not done, I will wait till it cools down tonight or the morning to take it for a run to see if this resolved my idle issue.

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Coldiron (Cold - Iron)
1992 Celica Gt4 RC Conv. St205 swap

http://www.noritoy.com

So I took a run with the oem o2 sensor. Its a bit baffling. The car runs better. sounds meaner, feels faster, but the readings are not much different. This is the same thing I noticed when I installed the sensor, The car got quieter, and did not feel to run as hard.
Its actually a little richer sometimes, and after coming to a stop after accelerating, the idle barely dips to 800-900 yet the o2s are the same as before. mid 12s. Before it was dipping to about 600 and running sluggish. It does seem to be a little leaner at cruising, which is fine to me.
So I guess the real question is, how can readings be close to the same, but the car runs better?

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Coldiron (Cold - Iron)
1992 Celica Gt4 RC Conv. St205 swap

http://www.noritoy.com

You only need a small change in AFR for it to make a big difference.

What are you using to measure AFR?

You may also be experiencing some oddity with timing if the old O2 sensor was screwed? (maybe the new one is just less screwed?). Either that or the ECU has gone in to limp mode and hence retarded timing which will make it feel sluggish.

_________________
JP
GT4DC Treasurer

Grey St185 RC
Silver BMW E46 M3
Multicolour yawn Honda VFR400
Silver Honda Civic Type-R