OK so I have spent many hours over the last few weeks looking into this and trying to come up with a solution.

Here's something that I had bought sometime last year for my 185 build
...dug it out of the depths of the garage and had a look in the box
ARC Air Removal System Kit:

Being Japanese I can't understand any of the instructions and unfortunately there were no diagrams
...so I came up with this schematic:

Now all I have to do is look at locations for it all.
(I can see that I'm going to have to make a couple of brackets up).

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Vice Chairman
1990 White UK Celica ST185 - Project DTM
1997 Cream BMW R1200C (as seen in James Bond "Tomorrow Never Dies")
2005 Jaguar X-type 3.0 Sovereign AWD Automatic
Blood Bikes - https://www.freewheelers.org.uk/

Diagram looks about right. I would use the original location for water temp sensor for any warning systems as water loss would prevent an in-line sensor from showing the overheating engine.

Most important thing is that the top of the header tank is the highest point in the system.
The bleed points should also go upwards only as air will rise. Also, if the swirl pot is below the head outlet, you should take a bleed from there too.

I have a similar system in my 185 except I don't have the swirl pot.

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If at first you don't suck seed, try drier grain.

Thanks for the reply Chris.
One thing that I missed and need to take into consideration is...
the radiator cap should be of a lower pressure than the header tank cap.
So I'll use the standard 0.9bar radiator cap and, something like, a 1.3/1.5bar TRD cap for the header tank.

_________________
Vice Chairman
1990 White UK Celica ST185 - Project DTM
1997 Cream BMW R1200C (as seen in James Bond "Tomorrow Never Dies")
2005 Jaguar X-type 3.0 Sovereign AWD Automatic
Blood Bikes - https://www.freewheelers.org.uk/

Rad cap actually needs to be zero pressure otherwise it'll never let air out. It has system pressure above as well as below. On mine, I removed the centre section of a standard one leaving just the cap & seal round the outside.

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If at first you don't suck seed, try drier grain.

Easy to take pics of mine while the engine's still out.

Tank (Mk3 escort) in position occupied by ABS on UK models. PS resevoir has been relocated.



Pic of T piece in rad bottom pipe.



Bleed from rad top showing modified rad cap.



This was done as a tempory so I could carry on limping with a blown head gasket, but it worked so well I've left it.

As an alternative location when I get round to doing it properly, I would position the tank just under the windscreen on the passenger side (near diagnostic connector) and T into one of the metal pipes that runs back to water pump inlet instead of the rad lower hose. This would give an easier path for the air bleeds from head outlet / swirl pot.

_________________
If at first you don't suck seed, try drier grain.

Hi,

looks "cool" to me
i have to do the same work soon

greetz

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KEEP COOL UNDER PRESSURE

street legal?.....perhaps in tschibuti