Cheers again boys... story started about 4 weeks back. She was in daily use and one cold morning taking wor lass to work she cut out about 1/2 mile from home whilst sitting at traffic lights. Most odd I thought... she started up ok so I dropped wor lass off and on the way back (one & a half mile done now) she cut out again at tickover at a junction. This time it took a few goes to start up again but I got her home and started asking around what it might be. I felt she was flooding once warm and MartinK suggested the water temp sensor in the elbow so I had a look and found the cold start sensor was broken and thought maybe this is confusing the ECU so I ordered new sensors (not easy to find!!) They eventually arrived so I fitted them the other day.
Now the boogar starts OK but cuts out after a few seconds, sometimes, if I keep the revs over 1500 she will run for a few minutes but as soon as revs drop she tends to cut out. When warm she seems to run ok but it is erratic and I am not taking her out on the road 'in case'
Once when trying to start her, after an awfull lot of cranking... the 4 way flashers came on and the turbo timer, which was switched off, came back on????.
It was then that I noticed the crackling/erratic flashing of the EML at full ignition.
Must be bad earth/contact somewhere so I'll just have to strip and search... oh boy

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Previously a UK WRC & a CS
Now...a 13/60 cv herald ,a Honda CR-Z and an Amica

Do you get any occasional hesitation/jerks while driving along ?

Can you whip the ecu out, remove the lid and take a photo of the lower board, especially near the centre. I'll link to the thread later when I'm on a pc.

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If at first you don't suck seed, try drier grain.

That almost now sounds like two separate issues, one to do the the cutting out and another resulting from the cranking maybe messing with the alarm.

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GT4DC Events Co-ordinator
1996 ST205 UK

This is the link.

viewtopic.php?f=2&t=5617

The one I witnessed (Lewis's car went wrong on our lake district trip), the engine light had a mind of it's own. It ran OKish once started but didn't idle too well and would only start from cold.
Daryls one I heard about, had slightly different symptoms but again it was erratic operation, cutting out, difficulty starting.

If you have a look in the ECU and it looks like a load of corrosion round the capacitor, or the capacitor has 'balooned' a bit or looks overheated, PM me and I'll give you my address to send it. CS ECU's are near impossible to find secondhand so worth a try at repair.

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If at first you don't suck seed, try drier grain.

Hiya jeff

Not been able to get on here as ive been at north west rally stages in blackpool with my car, following our phone conversation that we had while I was there that you don`t seem able to remember which is class imo the plug you are talking about on the 185`s is some sort of electrical noise suppressor

Nibbles could well be on the right track with the suggestions above, could be other sorts of bad connections also that would need investigation to find

Martin

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We now have a new website

https://www.mkautorepairsandtuning.uk/

http://www.facebook.com/pages/Mk-Auto-R ... 7894641634

Quite possible that the alarm issues are down to low battery power from all the cranking

Waiting for the next sequel, Indiana Nibbles And The Capacitor of Doom

The flashing alarm light & turbo timer coming on after loads of cranking is likely to be low battery IMO.

The other symptoms sound light bad connection / bad alarm contact (remarkably common) or the above ECU problem.

Bad connection / alarm I would expect to give misfires while driving along as well. The ECU problem seems to mainly affect low RPM / starting and fits the symptoms exactly.

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If at first you don't suck seed, try drier grain.

OK lads great stuff. Never had any jerking or hesitation whilst driving and yes I agree low battery with all the cranking probably caused the indicator/timer scenario. I've recharged her and had a few lads round today from the OC. Thanks to Bullitproof762 (Steve) Safcman Mike, MarkL860TUP for eating my chocolate digestives and pointing me at something they noticed!!!
Latest in the saga is that the throttle quadrant is not touching the 'piston' that comes from the 'bellows'... wish I new how to upload photos on here ... I will do it on OC.
The piston moves when trying to start but is a full 1/4" short of the stop.
Hope that makes sense
I'll try to find the ECU and have a look and photo it to.
Most grateful for all the input. One day I'll get the round in. Cheers.

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Previously a UK WRC & a CS
Now...a 13/60 cv herald ,a Honda CR-Z and an Amica

Absolutely none

Are you talking about the flap in the air flow meter ? I wouldn't expect that to open fully while cranking.

I would still look at the ECU as most likely culprit. It's located behind the centre console, pull back the top of the carper on the right of the passenger footwell (and left of drivers too to access fixing screws).

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If at first you don't suck seed, try drier grain.

Hi Jeff,

Have you checked the voltage at the fuel pump connector in the boot area?

I had a problem with the immobilizer fuel cut relay breaking down on my 205, and causing similar, but may not be the same problems.

Nibbles helped me with this one

Just chucking ideas into the pot.

But also the ECU sounds a likely culprit, old electronics breaking down?

Obvious when the ECU is opened up, but do not touch the circuit board, static electricity can kill the board

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[color=#000080]ST205 WRC 1994
Hybrid turbo
Apexi AVC-R
Apexi Power FC (Not being used ATM)
Apexi Power commander (Not being used ATM)

On the UK st205 there is a weird bellows thing on the throttle body Chris.
I guess from Jeff's description the UK 185 models have something similar.
Its purpose is entirely unknown - I think it's something to do with holding the throttle open during gearshifts as its only source of activation is a uncontrolled vac line to the plenum.
One thing for sure on the 205 it has nothing to do with idle control and i suspect the same is true on the185. I say this as last weekend there was a gap of about 100 miles between mine and the throttle quadrant but the idle was still perfect

viewtopic.php?f=13&t=3490&hilit=throttle
Turn to page 2 for pictures of said throttle thingamabob

Looks like something I've seen on a few late carburrettor systems as an 'auto idle' control. I think if the vac gets too high, it opens the throttle a bit more or something.

It's other possible function may be to apply a little throttle on overrun to limit the vac level and maybe help stop stalling by reducing rate of drop of engine RPM. Does seem a bit strange when there's an ECU controlled idle valve though, maybe Toyota were hedging their bets.

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If at first you don't suck seed, try drier grain.

Aye lads that it......... oh well..... another possible cause eliminated
She started and seemed to be fine early yesterday so I risked a run round the block... parked back up on drive leaving her ticking over and guess what??? She stalled and no way would start again!! I had to wind her into the garage in first
Another clue is the fact that when she stalls, the intercooler pump runs on for 30 sec or so and if I leave the ignition on, with the EML fickering and the crackling occuring the pump will occasionally start up again!! Even worse, the alarm system thinks she is running and locks the doors!!! Good job I leave the window open!
Ill try to get to the ECU soon but I am busy ferrying wor lass about (in the Kia!)
Thanks again. I'll keep you up to date.

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Previously a UK WRC & a CS
Now...a 13/60 cv herald ,a Honda CR-Z and an Amica

learning how to add photos!!!

My ECU in situ... wow! what a lot of wires.
Now I have found it I will gently unbolt it and see what I can see

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Previously a UK WRC & a CS
Now...a 13/60 cv herald ,a Honda CR-Z and an Amica