Evening all

Following a trip to Nur and seeing oil temps of near 130 degrees i've decided to invest in an oil cooler. But i really dont like sandwich plates.

Does anyone know if the two bungs above the oil filter on the drivers side of the engine were designed by Toyota as a place to fit an oil cooler on the TTE rally cars?

Just seems too perfect to put those holes there. But im not sure if thats what they were there for.

Im currently using one for a place to mount my Oil temp sender, but i can always mount this in the oil cooler pipework.

Im not sure if one of these holes is a feed and one is a return or whether they are just simple holes and provide nothing in the way of proper oil flow.

Also while we're on the subject of cooling has anyone ever joined two of the stock JDM transmission coolers together in parallel?

I though about upgrading the gearbox oil cooler too but then thought that there is no reason that i can see as to why i cant just get a 2nd standard cooler and pipe it in to the right of the one thats already there.

Cheers

With regards to the gearbox oil cooler can you not try to source a UK one - it being twice as large, possibly will be a neater install rather than running two in parallel.

I don't have a definitive answer for the blanking ports but I too would like to get rid of my sandwich plate on my new engine and will be investigating this in the near future. That being said there isn't anything particually wrong with using a sandwich plate. Touch wood mine has never leaked in 50k miles of driving and if you use a blitz stubby oil filter it doesn't sit any lower to the ground.

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GT4DC Events Co-ordinator
1996 ST205 UK

Ahhhh thanks for the heads up on the UK oil cooler. I didnt realise that it was different to the JDM cooler. I'll get hunting!

Great stuff, glad to know im not the only one who has thought about this Would be very interested to hear how you get on with it If i take the plunge and do it myself i'll let you know my results

The blanked ports are not really suitable without additional work. They come off post oil pump but there's nothing to create external flow

Ideal for Accusump type intalls though

Hi,

the ports you talk about are good for sensors but but like 205 say not really for a oil cooler

i also doesn't want to use a sandwitch plate too, but after all i decided to use one as it is the easiest way to build the system and also uses a thermostat

i'am also usinga a sligtly uprated gearbox radiator, i doesn't want to oversize it to much as the oil should can warm up to his operating temp,
you can also see a gearbox temp sensor on the pictures

here some pictures if it helps
http://gt4dc.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php? ... &start=150

greetz

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KEEP COOL UNDER PRESSURE

street legal?.....perhaps in tschibuti

I have actually taken some measurements of the gearbox oil temperature. I'll find the details and post them up - the upshot is that the GB temp isn't a problem on a UK car.

For the engine oil cooler I think a modification of the standard water to air cooler may yield a better system by bypassing the water lines and using a takeoff plate in this position rather than a sandwich plate?

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GT4DC Events Co-ordinator
1996 ST205 UK

Has anyone ever had a reading of gearbox oil temps on a jdm car?

I never noticed any issues with my gearbox and the smaller jdm oil cooler when giving it lots of track abuse.

I've seen some engine oil coolers on ebay with oil filter relocation kits.

I quite like this idea over a sandwich plate but im unsure yet as to whether they do a kit that fits the st205.

You can source all the parts you need from ThinkAuto in Isleworth. They are 'the' company to speak to for anything car plumbing related. I bought all my engine oil cooler parts from them, no kit just seperate components.

The main things to work out are location of the components and the route/angle of the pipe runs.

I did a writeup of my original install:

http://www.gt4dc.co.uk/info/howto/oilcoolerinstall/oilcoolerinstall.htm

The only thing I have changed since is I re-ran the pipework using Aeroquip hose with anodised aluminium fittings as the original ones started to corrode and looked unslightly as they were not stainless steel.

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GT4DC Events Co-ordinator
1996 ST205 UK

So after looking at a Caldina upper sump....

A sandwitch free install is possible butyou also need a filter relocation as well

what you would need to do is remove the filter and replace it with a blanking plate.(a caldina 245 oil heat exchanger blank may work). In doing this you'd also have to blank the centre oil feed that the standard filter screws on to..
On the Caldina design sump this would then re-route oil out of the frone two blanked ports and allow for return via the single port at the rear
Stock over pressure control would be retained and you're free to implement whatever external filter/cooler setup you want

I imagine this would be the same on a 205 sump too

Hi,

205, i wonder how the calidna 246 cool the oil, did you know it?

just for inform, i had a oil filter relocation in house and never used if you are interested.....

greetz

_________________
KEEP COOL UNDER PRESSURE

street legal?.....perhaps in tschibuti

Hey guys!

I bought an oil cooler but i sent it back because it wasnt as described. This has caused me to start looking at other methods.

Has anyone ever thought of removing the water feeds to the stock oil cooler and piping in a small radiator and pump?

This way im doing nothing with the oil system itself and dont need to worry about an oil thermostat etc

My idea is a radiator around half the size of the charge cooler rad and put it in the front arch (i've removed the water bottle) behind the air scoop below the indicator. Have this connected to the stock oil cooler and put a thermostat into the pipe to kick in at a set temp to start the water pump.

Any thoughts on this? Any reasons anyone can think of that this would not work?

i too keep meaning to do a oil cooler setup, i use the car quite alot on track and to be fair, i suppose i am playing with fire not having one and pushing it hard.

my brothers setup on his 205(over 400bhp) is similar to the one mentioned above by sirius, using a 19row cooler if i remember correctly and does the job really well... so far so good anyway.

with regards to fitting the cooler though i had the same idea as above of fitting it in below the indicator as i dont like to keep putting things infront of the radiator, a huge fmic and air con rads are too much already i feel.

but would air flow be sufficient with such a small air hole?

I think the hole would be fine as long as you cut a hole in the arch liner to let the air through.

Maybe make some ducting to channel the air perhaps.

Dale - I think Leeky is suggesting using an alternative water radiator to cool the oil and mounting this in the front arch.

Is that right Leeky?

I can't really see the benefit fo doing this - thats a lot of extra weight and complexity you'll be dragging around and in my opinion you will need a thermostat still as what will regulate the temperature of the cooling water? if this gets too cold the oil may also end up too cold. The only difference is that it will be an inline water thermostat that you will need.

Where did you get the oil cooler from that you sent back? What was wrong with it?

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GT4DC Events Co-ordinator
1996 ST205 UK

Yep thats my idea.

I was thinking about disconnecting the water pipes which run from the cooler to the rad and instead have a seperate rad and water system just to cool the oil.

Well i dont think it will add any more weight than an oil cooler would add as a rads a rad and i dont think there is much difference between the weight of oil vs water.

The only additional weight would be a water pump but this wouldnt weigh a lot.

The thing i like about this system is that it means no modification to the oil flow and if a foreign object peirced the rad it would not cause the engine to loose engine oil. Plus the water system wont be under the same pressures as the oil system, so less likely to have a hose come off or leak.

Lastly, by not having the oil cooler connected to the engine rad it should mean the rad runs slightly cooler.