I will check that. One issue on my throttle cable is that is welded to the bracket. So, there might not be much adjusting I can do to it.

Another thing I failed to say, when the idle becomes spiratic after driving some boost feels limited. It seems like it does not want to bosot as well.

I will examine all the things you all mentioned in the mornin g and report back.

thanks,
JC

_________________
Coldiron (Cold - Iron)
1992 Celica Gt4 RC Conv. St205 swap

http://www.noritoy.com

My friend suggest that the idle speed control is messed up. And the symptons he described are simular to mine. I wonder if the valve can be affected by something that just hooked up wrong on the engine. I will take pics of how all the post tb lines are run, and maybe you guys can help.

_________________
Coldiron (Cold - Iron)
1992 Celica Gt4 RC Conv. St205 swap

http://www.noritoy.com

Alright, I tired a few things.

First I adjusted the throttle cable, but it was fine so I set it back.

Next I plugged in the a/c idle up vsv. Idle first went down to 1,200 then 900 and stayed. The rev issue seemed to go away. After I finish adjusting me teins I will go for a test drive.

I still want to inspect the turbo vsv.

Here is a vid of the new idle. Pardon my engine bay, still a work in progress.

http://s127.photobucket.com/albums/p136 ... I_4852.flv

_________________
Coldiron (Cold - Iron)
1992 Celica Gt4 RC Conv. St205 swap

http://www.noritoy.com

Installed the idle vsv and it fixed the problem. I didn't even wire it in. Just connected it. Idles and runs great. So I have one problem left.

It still won't boost past 10psi.

It looks like the turbo vsv is hooked up.

Couple of questions.
Does the turbo vsv use the same electrical plug for both the st205 and 185?

What are all the factors that limit boost on a st205?

wastegate
vsv

anything else?
Is the vsv computer contolled¿ Might an issue with the car cause it to boost less?
Could another vacuum issue cause low bosot?

thanks,

_________________
Coldiron (Cold - Iron)
1992 Celica Gt4 RC Conv. St205 swap

http://www.noritoy.com

Not sure, but I have some spares in the garage, if you post a picture of the connector I will compare for you.


imho - coolant temperature, knock, road speed (gear) *edit* and Code 54


Yes, controlled by the ECU, just like most of the other bits and bobs in the engine bay.

Is the TVSV connected up ok? You have 2 connections on top of the stock wastegate actuator, one that goes to the compressor housing, the other connects to a hard pipe that travels to the rear of the block which then connects to the TVSV gizmo.

_________________
Kris
95 ST205 - slept for 10 years, now waking up...
Avensis
http://www.gtfours.co.uk
_______________________________________
Turbocharging - the replacement for displacement

Yep. Its hooked up. I am not sure if its plugged in though. I wonder if it wasn't getting power, it might not be functioning causing it to reley in the WG for boost regulation. However, when I had code 54 I could not boost over 5psi. So I suspect it is functioning.

Any idea what boost is retarded to if their is knock. I am running 93 octane fuel. Could be be reduced due to not using jap fuel standards?

_________________
Coldiron (Cold - Iron)
1992 Celica Gt4 RC Conv. St205 swap

http://www.noritoy.com

I was reading a cached version of st205.net. He claims that max stock boost is 11psi. Perhaps my boost guage is wrong and I am hiting max boost. However, I have an turbo back exhaust w/o cat. So shouldn't that cause the engine to bosot higher than stock or does the st205 setup prevent that better than the 185 does? This thing might be running close to right after all. I just want to be sure before I do anything with the boost. I might disconnect the vsv just to see what it runs just with the wastegate.

_________________
Coldiron (Cold - Iron)
1992 Celica Gt4 RC Conv. St205 swap

http://www.noritoy.com

It's a little bit hard to say. Toyota specify a pretty wide tolerance for boost on stock cars, never mind modified

It's allowed to be anywhere from 0.7 to 1.1bar if I recall correctly (10.2-16.2psi)
So yours is within factory tolerance.
However, if yours was limited to circa 5psi with the code 54 and is now running over 10psi then I'd suspect that the VSV is working right and you're just seeing low numbers.

What turbo setup are you running? Original CT26 or a new CT20.
Also what actuator are you running? The stock CT26 has a lower PSI actuator than the CT20 which might explain some of your issues

Good news on getting the idle right though

One other point. Assuming you have a JDM clip you're on the edge on 93 fuel. I know that your fuel is rated different to ours (RON+MON)/2 as I recall from my days in Cali... but I think the RON is still only circa 96-97?
The JDM ecu is factory mapped for 100RON which is quite a bit higher than yours. It is just possible that the ECU is limiting boost due to knock. You should be able to test this. Get the car good and warm then stop and pull the EFI fuse to reset the ECU. This will reset the stock timing and boost as far as I know so if it's an ECU issue your full 13psi should be restored.....until the ECU detects knock and winds the timing down again

Funny thing is I just discussed with a toyota tech something simular to what your saying.

How does the st205 ecu react to lean conditions?

Everything in the engine bay is stock 205 turbo etc..
Only aftermarket I have is a straight intake and turbo back exhaust.

I am using the 185 fuel pump.

As of right now my walboro 255 pump is being installed. One thing I suspect is that a combination of the 185 pump, and 93 octane fuel that my current fueling situation is messing with the boost.

THe car will hit 10psi but after a 10 minute run, it builds boost slower and strarts limiting it to 5-7psi. I don't hear any knock and the engine still runs fine. But boost does not work as well. I also have some hesitation off the line.
There is also a small bit of back fire coming from the exhaust when I blip the throttle and let off.

So, I going to install the new fuel pump and put some high octane fuel into it and see how it improves.

I plan on using the this method for improving the fuel conditions.
http://www.elektro.com/~audi/toluene/

I will keep you all posted. There is still chance I have some vac gremlins but I am going to make sure its not fuel first.

_________________
Coldiron (Cold - Iron)
1992 Celica Gt4 RC Conv. St205 swap

http://www.noritoy.com

Well it certainly sounds to me like the combination of the 185 pump with low octane fuel could indeed be a main factor even if not the whole reason why you are having these issues.

Best thing is to wait until the new pump is in and you're using higher octane fuel and then see. You may find that the charge temps are also a possible problem here which result in some retardation too - have you any idea what they are? Is the WAIC working properly (pump etc etc) do you know?

Cheers,
Mark

_________________
Mark - 94 Red Jap ST205 WRC - Gone but not forgotten
'06 Blue Merc E320 CDi v6
'89 Mica Blue MR2 Mk1b restoration project
"Don't make me come over there"

Pump works properly. The system is running all the time and I am using an upgraded heat exchanger. The cooling should be better than stock. I will find out sunday if this was my issue. I hope that was all it was was the pump.

_________________
Coldiron (Cold - Iron)
1992 Celica Gt4 RC Conv. St205 swap

http://www.noritoy.com

The car has been down for a couple of weeks, and is running worse now. As soon as it sees any boost, its like hitting a wall. Its might get to 3-5psi max and then it pulls back. Idles good and runs well except for that. Suggestions?

_________________
Coldiron (Cold - Iron)
1992 Celica Gt4 RC Conv. St205 swap

http://www.noritoy.com

That would tend to sound like an ignition problem

I assume the ECU isn't flashing the check engine light?
Must be worth checking for eror codes just in case. Other than that I'd suggest a visual inspection of the dizzy and rotor arm followed by checking the static timing
Maybe after that try and get a smog check just to make sure the fuel mix is in the right ballpark at idle and unloaded rpm

Pull the spark plugs out and check them too. After that it's going to start to get tricky, especially with the engine conversion as there's a whole heap of potential issues

The misfire symptoms **sound** ignition related though in the abscence of any ECU error codes

Alright. I decided to do a test and it worked.

I bridged fp & b+ with a paper clip and used electrical tape to hold it in to force the pump to go into high mode.

I can hear the pump now, where I could not before.

I also added ~97 octane fuel to an empty tank.

It returned to its previous self.

It could boost to 10psi for a bit, then 5psi and back to 10 for a drive.

So, this tells me the pump is not bad. But the pump is staying in low mode. I am using the st185 relays and coilpack. So, is there any other factor that controls the fuel pump?

I wonder if I need the st205 coilpack.

That could be the problem the entire time.

Suggestions?

_________________
Coldiron (Cold - Iron)
1992 Celica Gt4 RC Conv. St205 swap

http://www.noritoy.com

I can't help but think that the problem is boost related, and not the other bits and bobs to make the car function.

What about leaks, vacuum and boost - exhaust manifold ok, intercooler pipework all fastened up ok? It's quite common to miss doing up the jubilee clips on either the enrty or exit from the intercooler.

What about the actuator? Is the connected up securely? What about testing the actuator, does it hold pressure when tested e.g. with a foot pump?

_________________
Kris
95 ST205 - slept for 10 years, now waking up...
Avensis
http://www.gtfours.co.uk
_______________________________________
Turbocharging - the replacement for displacement