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PostPosted: Fri Apr 27, 2007 11:01 am 
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Erghh - Does the ST205 actually have a fuel pump relay that operates in low voltage and high voltage mode?

What ECu & Loom & relays are you using? Maybe the St205 ECu does not activate the fuel pump realy as the St205 just doesn't have one!

If you can provide info on what bits are ST205 & what bits are ST185 I think it may help.

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 27, 2007 3:59 pm 
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All wiring and relays are 185. Pump controllers are all 185.

You right, maybe the 205 does not have this. However, the oem 185 pump would change from high to low mode on this swap.

I read around on the mr2 forums, and it seems there has been issues puting the walboro pump into high mode, and alltrac guys have been burning them up lately.

I am going to go through the 205 bgb and see if I can find any control data on the fuel pump.

Its going to be a busy day, I plan on attending a Toyota meet in the morning, so I have 13 hours till midnight to get it figured out.

I am also going to check vac leaks. I think my base problem is vac related. The issues are conciderably reduced when its cold out.

Wish me luck, and if anyone discovers anything, please advise.

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 27, 2007 5:32 pm 
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I have been told, if I remove the resistor pack and relay the pump will stay in high mode. So, I will get back with an update.

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 27, 2007 6:49 pm 
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Location: Sunny Fareham, UK
Car Model: ST205
All the GT4 have the 2 voltage arrangement for the fuel pump.

EWD-6 from the 205 manual shows this.

You can remove the resistor pack, but you will need to bridge the resistor pack with some wiring or a stock car will not run.

My 2p - I'd leave it alone, maybe concentrate on the boost issue you have?

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 27, 2007 7:39 pm 
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I guess you'll have to meter the drive circuit up to see if it's powered. However, a tempory short instaed of the relay won't do too much damage I'm sure. Just enough to get you to a meet and back ;)


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 27, 2007 9:02 pm 
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We are going to install the 205 resistor in a little bit and see if that helps.

Any chance one of you could shoot a pic of the vac diagram under the st205 bonnet? I want to double check all that.

thanks,

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 27, 2007 10:27 pm 
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I am not sure the ST205 has the sticker under the bonnet liek the ST185 does. My JDm doesn't - Mike's Uk doesn't - Anyone got one?

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 27, 2007 10:58 pm 
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Nope not on either of our 205's :(

Sorry.

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PostPosted: Sat Apr 28, 2007 12:58 am 
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I have only heard of it, now I know its not true.

Well, then any suggestions where I caan find the diagram? The idiots who wrote the bgb did not find it to be very important.

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 30, 2007 1:57 am 
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Did not take it to the meet for sake of preserving the car and making sure its done right before flogging it.
So, we found there is a combination of gremlins in my car.

Its runs smooth and good untill getting strong boost.

We discovered my boost gauge is wrong. I only have ~11merc. However it fluxuates. I think its gone up to 21 at some point. It runs better with the wrong merc reading.

So I am going to start from the begining.
My biggest problem is locating vac hose information. I think this is my biggest problem is vacuum. So I am doing that. I am also going to double check all my woring and sensors.

I am getting a code 23 right now, which I think is the THA or THAM.

I did take it for a test run though. After installing the lsd I think I have created a monster. less desire to give up and sell it, more desire to fix it.

So let the restoration, and empowerment begin.

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 30, 2007 5:43 pm 
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Quote:
am getting a code 23 right now

This fault relates to the MAT - MAnifold Air Temperature sensor. This is fitted just to the right hand side of the throttle body in the front of the intake manifold.

If you need pictures or help following vac lines then I have a car outside that works fine and can trace the lines for you. You will however owe me a beer for getting my hands dirty! :)

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 30, 2007 7:40 pm 
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Do you want your beer via UPS or Royal Mail.

I am only a hemisphere over. ;)

I could really use some vacuum help. I never really had much to go by, and I think this is the root to my problem.

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PostPosted: Sun May 13, 2007 3:38 pm 
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Installed the new boost gauge. Turns out I am getting up to 15-17psi. Turns it down to 10 after running hard for a bit.
Vac is ~16hg. Should be around 21.

Car runs better now and does not pull timing as bad since I fixed the one leak. I will keep plugging away till I find them all.

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PostPosted: Fri Jun 15, 2007 4:30 pm 
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So I went to a plubing shop and purchased a plastic cap w/ 3" inner dia. Then I instaled a fitting that will connet it to my air compressor. I then ran ~20-25psi into the straight intake.

I found 2 things leaking air. My a/c ice vsv, which I already knew about. So I replaced it.

Then I found my oem oild catch can has a massive crack in it that is spewing out air. Which explains my vac/boost issues. At least I think so.

So if anyone knows where I can get a oem catch can cheap sent to me in the State, I would appreicate it.

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 18, 2007 4:12 pm 
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Kris is hooking me up. I sealed it with silicone to test for more leaks. I had one right about my turbo, the hose clame was bad. So I installed a new one, and it seems leak free.

Idle was better, however after letting off the gas I still get a dip in idle.

Vac is around 17 at idle and goes to ~25 while coasting.
Its supposed to be ~21hg.

The car drives good. It only boosts 15psi now instead of 17.

The timing also does not pull near as hard, if at all.

I think I sitll have vac gremlins somewhere but I think I got all the leaks covered. Just a matter of figuring out what hose is hooked up wrong.

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